"El Potro presents climbers with a meticulous trad challenge along a left-facing corner in El Escalon. Featuring a demanding crux by a small tree and fluctuating crack widths, it offers a blend of technical moves and gear placements that reward precision and focus."
El Potro stretches 74 feet up a striking left-facing corner on the rugged cliffs of El Escalon, Jalisco. This technical trad route demands careful footwork and precise gear placements, starting with a narrow lieback protected by small nuts. The rock here seems almost alive, daring climbers to commit as they inch past a small but pivotal tree—the crux of the climb. Beyond this natural marker, the crack broadens to accommodate larger protection up to 4 inches but then tapers again, giving way to a series of moves that test both technique and mental focus. As you ascend, the rock’s texture shifts, providing a tactile variety that keeps you attentive but rewarded with clear holds and a sense of steady progression. The final moves linger in the memory, requiring a blend of strength and finesse to top out.
Located in Northern Mexico’s promising climbing enclave, El Escalon is an emerging destination that offers a blend of volcanic rock formations and a sun-soaked climate. This route exemplifies the area’s emphasis on traditional climbing, where protection isn’t always obvious, and commitment is part of the game. Unlike more polished sport routes, El Potro calls for a thoughtful rack of small to medium nuts and the confidence to place gear in thin cracks. Given its exposure and the sharpness of some holds, solid climbing shoes and a firm mental approach are essential.
The approach to El Potro is straightforward yet rugged, carving a path through warming desert scrub and rocky outcrops. Expect dry earth underfoot, occasional thorny bushes brushing your skin, and the call of birds wheeling overhead. The sun can be intense, especially in the midday hours, so an early start or late afternoon session is best to avoid overheating. Water is not available at the base, so bring enough to stay hydrated throughout the climb. The setting sun casts long shadows across the rock face, giving a dramatic flair to the final pitches and cooling the rock for a comfortable descent.
Protection requires a versatile nut set from small to 4 inches. The crack fluctuates in width, often demanding careful placements that hold solid but reward steady hands. Unlike sport routes with fixed bolts, El Potro invites you to engage fully with your rack and reading the rock. While the route’s striking features are its challenge and appeal, careful attention to gear and secure placements are vital to manage the 5.10c R rating, where the 'R' signals potential runouts and the need for careful planning.
El Escalon’s terrain encourages exploration, with pockets of forest interrupted by steep volcanic slabs, creating a vivid climbing environment that feels both wild and approachable. Though the route is alone in its immediate vicinity, the broader area offers multiple climbs each with distinct character. Seasonally, the best time to visit is fall through spring when temperatures moderate, and winds often keep the heat at bay. The southern aspect of El Potro means it basks in sun during the morning and early afternoon before cooling in the evening.
Descending from the top involves a straightforward walk off to the east, following a faint trail that winds down through shale and scattered boulders. The route requires no rappel, but caution is necessary on loose terrain, especially if you’re fatigued. El Potro rewards climbers who balance patience with precision—those who come prepared will find a route both demanding and deeply satisfying, with a character that lingers well beyond the final hold.
The crux rests on near-thin gear placements above a small tree, so ensure all nuts are seated securely. Loose rock can be present near the top; approach and descend with caution over unstable shale sections.
Start early to avoid intense midday heat on the south-facing wall.
Bring a full rack of nuts including small sizes and up to 4-inch pieces.
Stay hydrated as there’s no water source near the base.
Descend via the east-side walk-off trail; watch for loose rock on the way down.
Small nuts up to 4 inches are essential for protecting the various crack widths along the route. Expect to rely heavily on precise placements around the crux, including thin liebacks near the tree.
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