"El Nino offers a focused sport climbing experience with a technical start and a mellow finish on California’s Redwood Coast. Its mix of bolt protection and gear placements tests climbers’ skills against abundant coastal forest and granite features."
Located within the rugged expanse of the Redwood Coast, El Nino offers climbers a compelling slice of California’s coastal climbing culture. This single-pitch sport route rises roughly 100 feet on the Safari Wall, tucked beneath the Trinity Arêtes, a collection of bold rock features that evoke a raw, exposed climbing experience framed by towering redwoods and the cool Pacific breeze. From the start, climbers find themselves perched on a ledge system just uphill of Paisano Buttress, where the rock dares you to lean in. The first bolt is just out of reach, pressing you into technical moves that engage finger strength and balance before the climb unwinds into more moderate terrain. For those new to the wall, the initial moves offer a brief but rewarding pump, a taste of what the granite here demands.
Protection consists of six well-spaced bolts complemented by optional placements for gear up to 2 inches, allowing climbers to supplement the fixed anchors where the rock gives subtle opportunities. This gear mix invites a bit of traditional flair, giving climbers a chance to customize their safety nets based on personal comfort and confidence. As you ascend, the rock texture transitions from smooth slabs to small edges, offering varied holds that test footwork and body positioning. Eventually, the route leads to a two-bolt anchor perched near the base of a prominent tree, offering a natural belay site with a view balanced between forest canopy and distant coastline.
Approach is straightforward for experienced visitors, with a short hike from well-marked trails threading through old-growth forest. The terrain underfoot shifts between exposed roots and packed earth, demanding sturdy footwear and attention to footing to prevent slips on damp mornings. The wall faces northwest, catching afternoon sun and cooling sea breezes that make midday climbs particularly pleasant in spring through early fall. Timing your ascent for late morning into afternoon prevents overheating and allows for steady drying of the often-moist rock.
El Nino’s rating at 5.9 speaks to a climb that’s accessible yet still engaging for those stepping up from beginner routes. It demands solid technique without veering into overly strenuous territory—though the crux at the beginning adds a burst of challenge before easing off. Like many walls along the Redwood Coast, the setting rewards focus and respect for its natural elements. Wind can gust unexpectedly, and the proximity of forest life means that sudden bird calls and the rustle of leaves are part of the vertical rhythm.
For climbers planning the trip, hydrating before and after the route is vital as the shaded approach doesn’t always mask the exertion of a technical climb. Bringing a light first aid kit and a phone for emergencies is recommended, especially since cellular service here may vary. The common descent involves rappelling from the two-bolt anchor—ropes of at least 60 meters ensure a smooth lowering sequence. Alternatively, more experienced climbers can downclimb with caution, watching for loose sections near the base.
El Nino stands out as a rewarding sport climb on California’s northern coast, balancing straightforward bolt protection with enough complexity and exposure to keep it memorable. It offers a tangible connection to nature’s force and the thrill of vertical movement amid towering redwoods, where every hold and clip feels earned on this intimate, windswept cliff.
Be cautious of windy conditions that can unbalance you on exposed moves near the start. The base can become slippery after rain, and the rappel descent demands attention to rope management and anchor security.
Approach via established trails through damp forest; wear shoes with good traction.
Start your climb late morning to mid-afternoon for optimal sun and dry rock.
Carry at least 60 meters of rope for the rappel descent from the two-bolt anchor.
Bring layers to handle cooling coastal winds once you reach the belay.
Six bolts secure the route with supplementary protection placements for gear up to 2 inches, offering flexibility beyond the fixed anchors. Climbers should be prepared with a standard sport rack plus a couple of mid-sized cams to fill in protection gaps.
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