El Lado Oscuro de la Luna presents a compact yet demanding climb that challenges your ability to read the rock and trust your feet. This single-pitch sport route spans 50 feet on a slab that requires confident smearing and precise footwork. From the ground, the wall rises with a clean face that invites quiet focus; the rock itself has a textured grain that rewards subtle shifts in weight. Midway, the route tightens into a groove where stances turn into controlled stems, forcing climbers to engage their core and balance under pressure. Though the crux presents itself just past the first bolt, the difficulty lies not only in strength but in the rhythm of movement — the dance between trusting friction and moving deliberately.

To the left, a distinct crack system—Yabadabadu rated at 5.8—skirts the main line and offers a tempting alternative, but it’s the bolt-protected sport route that holds the spotlight for those chasing a more measured challenge. Anchored by five bolts and topped off with a sturdy tree anchor, this climb balances security with exposure, offering a straightforward protection system that lets you concentrate on technique rather than gear placement.

Located in the sparsely climbed Monarca region near Aculco, Central Mexico, the rock builds a quiet connection to the landscape. The area’s altitude lends a crisp air that fills your lungs and sharpens the senses. Expect the sun to illuminate the slab in the early afternoon, warming the stone just enough to enhance friction but demanding hydration breaks to offset the dry heat.

While short, this route is a concentrated dose of movement diversity—from thin smears to powerful stemming—making it an ideal testbed for climbers looking to refine slab tactics in a beautiful, low-traffic setting. Given its approachable height but technical demands, it caters well to those ready to push into the 5.10 range with confidence and patience.