HomeClimbingEl Grandote

El Grandote: A Bold Trad Journey on Tahquitz Rock

Idyllwild, California USA
right-facing dihedral
roof moves
slab climbing
multi-pitch
trad rack
Tahquitz Rock
California granite
Length: 800 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
El Grandote
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"El Grandote carves a striking line on Tahquitz Rock’s north face, blending crack jams, slab moves, and roof maneuvers over five pitches. This classic trad route challenges climbers with varied terrain and a demanding route-finding adventure."

El Grandote: A Bold Trad Journey on Tahquitz Rock

El Grandote offers climbers a compelling day of traditional climbing framed by the rugged beauty of Tahquitz Rock. This five-pitch route ascends roughly 800 feet along a clearly defined line that challenges both your technique and mental focus. Starting with a striking right-facing dihedral on the first pitch, the climb demands careful footwork and gear placements as you navigate under a prominent roof before shifting direction toward a well-protected crack system. The first belay spot offers a welcome breather on a ledge crowned by a small tree, a silent partner in your ascent.

From here, the route veers right and upward on the second pitch, presenting two distinct options: a right-facing flake climb that rewards precise moves or a short but tricky corner guarded by a stuck hex and piton. This section includes some delicate slab moves requiring steady balance and unwavering commitment. The belay at the end of pitch two is unconventional, perched awkwardly on a bush—a reminder that the route keeps you alert.

Pitch three eases into a notch in the roof, guiding you onto easier terrain closely intersecting with the El Whampo route, before settling you at a belay beneath another roof. The choice at pitch four lets you push left through the roof for steeper challenges or take a rightward path on a short slab that tests friction skills and confidence. The final pitch climbs straightforward terrain up to a broad shoulder, where the route peter out into a descent gully.

Protection up to 3 inches is vital, with opportunities to place solid gear throughout the climb, though some placements require a discerning eye. The rock quality is typical of Tahquitz—mostly sound, but some sections demand careful evaluation to ensure safety. The approach to the climb rewards with a quiet forested path and ends at the base of one of California’s most renowned granite faces.

Timing your climb to mid-morning ensures the wall is warmed by the sun without becoming uncomfortably hot. The east-facing aspect catches light early on, energizing the rock and your hands. Bring layered clothing and ample hydration, especially during warmer months, and firmly lace up shoes that excel on crack and slab pitches.

While El Grandote features moderate difficulties, expect the crux moves to test your technique more than raw strength, especially on pitch two’s slab transitions and the roof exit on pitch four. This route stands as a solid introduction to longer multi-pitch trad climbs in the area, suitable for those looking to advance their skills in a scenic, focused setting.

Descending is straightforward via the adjacent gully, but cautious footing is necessary on loose scree sections. Pack a helmet for rockfall potential and allow extra time for a relaxed descent to fully absorb the day’s effort.

With its blend of mixed cracks, slabs, and roof encounters, El Grandote offers a well-rounded trad adventure. It invites climbers to move thoughtfully through a landscape that challenges body and mind, capped by views that remind you why Tahquitz continues to inspire generations of climbers.

Climber Safety

Stay vigilant on the slab sections where footholds can be sparse and rock can feel less secure. The awkward belay positions, especially the one perched on a bush, require careful setup and communication. Loose rock is rare but possible near the descent gully—helmet use is strongly recommended.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length800 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid climbing in intense afternoon heat.

Bring gloves or tape your hands for crack protection on jams.

Watch your footing during slab moves—friction can be tricky.

Scout the descent gully after the climb to choose the safest path.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:This 5.9 route feels appropriately challenging with some stiff sections, particularly on pitch two’s slab transitions and the roof exit on pitch four. The grade is balanced—not soft, but not overly stiff either—making El Grandote a solid testpiece for climbers moving into sustained multi-pitch trad terrain. Compared to other Tahquitz 5.9’s, the route demands slightly more technical footwork and route-finding skills.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack with protection up to 3 inches, including cams for the crack systems and flake features. Expect to place pro frequently, especially on pitches one and two. Some gear placements require precision due to slabby sections and roof transitions.

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Tags

right-facing dihedral
roof moves
slab climbing
multi-pitch
trad rack
Tahquitz Rock
California granite