"This two-pitch line in northern Jalisco combines measured traditional climbing with a demanding sport crux. It challenges climbers to manage gear placements and execute technical moves on sharp limestone, all set in a dry, open landscape favored for late afternoon ascents."
El Escalon, tucked within the rugged landscapes of northern Jalisco, Mexico, offers a compelling blend of traditional climbing and a sharp technical challenge that tests both gear skills and physical precision. This two-pitch route unfolds over 165 feet, beginning with an approachable but thoughtful 5.9+ trad pitch requiring solid placements in 1-inch gear, setting an intentional pace that engages gear runners and route readers alike. The rock here is steep but textured, with subtle edges and cracks that demand careful footwork and trusting your protection.
The second pitch shifts focus decisively to a 5.10b/c sport crux, where fixed bolts take over and the climbing tightens into powerful moves on a cleaner face. This pitch demands finger strength and body tension as climbers navigate smaller holds and dynamic sequences. The contrast between the first pitch’s gear-dependent protection and the bolt-secured, dynamic second pitch creates a distinct rhythm—methodical and grounding followed by explosive and athletic.
The approach leads through a dry, scrub-covered terrain typical of northern Mexico’s foothills, delivering sparse shade but rewarding climbers with expansive views of the surrounding foothills. The area’s natural light catches the stone in a warm glow late afternoon, making this a prime time to push through the tougher moves.
To maximize your ascent, bring a rack stocked with small and micro cams for the first pitch placements; these placements are essential to maintain confidence and rhythm before the sport crux bolts. Hydration is key here—the dry environment and exposed approach mean water stores and sun protection are necessary. Footwear with sticky rubber and sensitive edging will help negotiate the varied texture from crack to slab.
El Escalon’s mix of trad and sport calls for sharp attention to protection transitions and a mental readiness to switch climbing styles mid-route. It’s a rewarding climb for those looking to sharpen trad gear skills while pushing into sport grades, all wrapped in the climbing culture and stark beauty of Jalisco’s northern ridges.
Keep in mind that the route is lightly voted on, showing it as a hidden gem for climbers who enjoy routes off the beaten path. It is ideal for intermediate climbers comfortable with gear placements and looking to extend skills into technical face climbing. Plan accordingly for late afternoon ascents to avoid the harsh midday sun and prepare for a quick descent down a straightforward trail at the base.
The transition from traditional gear to bolt-protected climbing requires focused attention on protection placements and clipping. Small gear can feel runout, and the ledges at belay stations demand careful stance and stable positioning before continuing.
Start your climb in mid to late afternoon to avoid the harsh midday sun on the face.
Bring plenty of water and sun protection; the approach and route experience limited shade.
Prepare a rack heavy on small and micro cams for the first pitch's gear placements.
Exercise caution during the gear-to-bolt protection transition on the second pitch.
The first pitch requires a rack with 1-inch cams to protect the trad crack climbing, while the second pitch is protected by bolts for sport climbing. Small cams and micro gear will secure the initial gear placements before transitioning to fixed protection.
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