5.10c/d R, Trad
El Escalon
Jalisco ,Mexico
"El Embrujo offers a raw, single-pitch trad climb that tests your ability to manage sparse protection and rugged rock on a vertical face in northern Jalisco. Its demanding line, combined with a bold R rating, makes it an ideal challenge for experienced trad climbers seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure."
El Embrujo stands as a pure expression of traditional climbing in the northern reaches of Jalisco, Mexico. This single-pitch route stretches 105 feet along a demanding face that holds every bit of the rock’s raw character. From the first move, the absence of two bottom bolts underscores the route’s commitment to authentic trad climbing—gear placements, not hardware, protect your ascent here. The rock demands attention, and your fingers and feet respond to subtle holds scattered across a vertical line that tests both strength and patience.
Arriving at El Escalon feels like stepping into a quieter world shaped by stark cliffs and the steady presence of restless winds. The rock itself is rugged, offering pockets and edges that challenge your ability to read the stone while marshalling your courage in equal measure. A light breeze carries the faintest scent of dry earth and sun-baked mineral, while the afternoon sun throws shadows that shift as you climb, carving the route into a dynamic play of light and texture.
The climb’s unusual grade—5.10c/d R—reflects not just technical difficulty but also the added commitment that comes with sparse fixed gear. Rhetorically, this means you’ll want to be sharp with your traditional placements and comfortable with a runout that demands focus and calm. The rock's surface, though solid, has sections that could benefit from additional cleaning, meaning the route still retains an adventurous edge where nature meets climber-driven effort.
Preparation is key: pack a well-rounded rack covering smaller to medium cams, nuts for less obvious slots, and a few slings to secure runs. The approach involves navigating rocky paths with moderate brush—footwear with good traction is essential. Given the route’s exposure to sun in the afternoon, starting early provides cooler conditions and better grip. Water and sun protection should be a must, as the area offers little refuge from the heat.
Beyond the climbing itself, El Escalon’s setting rewards with an expansive view toward the surrounding valleys and distant hills. Quiet but imposing, the landscape encourages a moment to breathe deeply and appreciate the raw honesty of trad climbing in its natural context. This is not a route for polished sport climbers looking for perfectly clipped bolts or easy runs between placements; rather, it’s a call to those who want to engage fully with the rock, the risk, and the satisfying pulse that comes with managing both.
For those venturing here, expect a blend of physical and mental endurance, a demanding but rewarding climb that opens a window into Mexico’s northern wilderness climbing scene. From the approach trail to the last clip, El Embrujo dares climbers to leave comfort behind and embrace the unpredictable rhythm of trad on seldom-touched stone.
Because two bolts are missing near the start, climbers must rely exclusively on gear placements initially, which can be sparse. Careful and deliberate protection is critical to mitigate the risk of a long fall. The rock holds some debris; cleaning before the climb is advisable for safer moves.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and ensure better rock friction.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for gripping the often slabby holds.
Double-check gear placements due to the runout sections, especially near the route base.
Carry plenty of water and sun protection; shade is minimal along the approach and route.
Bring a comprehensive trad rack with small to medium cams, nuts, and enough slings to extend placements. The absence of two critical bolts at the bottom means solid gear placement skills are essential from the start.
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