"El Diablo de Oro crafts a memorable alpine-style climb on Wild Ridge with eight pitches of moderate trad climbing. Its mixture of technical sequences and natural escape routes make it a compelling choice for adventurous climbers seeking a balanced day on the wall."
El Diablo de Oro stands as the inaugural officially established route on Colorado’s Wild Ridge, an eight-pitch trad climb that offers a spirited alpine adventure without the altitude of true alpine climbs. Spanning roughly 1,000 feet, this route invites climbers into an environment where golden fall light bathes the rock, lending the ridge its name and the route its character.
Approaching the climb, hikers traverse a grassy ledge and moss-coated slabs leading to the base of the first pitch, marked by a solitary belay bolt. From here, El Diablo de Oro reveals a varied line that mixes moderate climbing with discreet challenges. Early pitches flow through corners, ramps, and jugs, threading the line with a mindful balance of gear placements and bolts designed for security amidst loose rock patches. Vegetation and scattered trees offer natural anchors and subtle wayfinding cues as the climb ascends.
The setting rewards with broad views of nearby Pyramid Peak and New York Mountain, encouraging moments of quiet appreciation along the way. The rock quality holds firm for much of the route, though occasional sections dip momentarily into dusty, fragile terrain that demands care and attention.
Pitch six emerges as the highlight and the route’s crux. Here, climbers move up the west face of Wild Tower, negotiating mossy holds and delicate face climbs, supported by well-placed bolts and traditional protection. This pitch balances technical hand jams and gripping sequences that define the route’s moderate 5.8 rating, requiring focused effort after the steady physicality of prior pitches.
Though alpine in style, the route remains below tree line and offers multiple escape options via simple scrambles along the ridge at most belays. This versatility makes El Diablo de Oro a manageable, yet engaging day outing—often completed in three and a half to five hours from car to car.
Protection demands a thoughtful rack setup with a single set of cams ranging from small to mid-sized—green Alien to red C3s and 2 Camalots cover the majority of placements. A 3 Camalot is optional but can be useful. The presence of about 20 bolts along the route, including fixed anchors, balances the need for traditional gear in more runout sections.
The approach references the Wild Ridge trail network, detailed in separate beta, guiding climbers to the left ridgeline where the climb begins. Descending involves scrambling off or downclimbing with care, particularly on loose slabs and exposed moves.
In sum, El Diablo de Oro offers an alpine-flavored day of trad climbing woven with thoughtful route-finding, moderate technical challenges, and sweeping high-country views. It invites climbers ready for a solid day of rhythm and exposure combined with natural beauty and a touch of ruggedness. Seasonally, late summer to early fall provides the best light and ripe wild raspberries near the summit, rewarding those who reach the top.
Loose rock is present in sections, particularly near the start of pitch two and around the crux pitch six. Be vigilant about rockfall, maintain clean gear placements, and watch weather closely—approaches and summit can become slick and dangerous during sudden storms common in late summer afternoons.
Approach via the Wild Ridge trail and head west to the far left ridgeline to find the climb’s base.
Wear shoes suitable for both climbing and scrambling as some sections require a switch to approach shoes.
Watch for loose rock especially on pitches two and six where careful foot placement is key.
Plan your climb between late summer and early fall to enjoy the golden light and local raspberries near the summit.
Bring a 40-meter rope since pitches are relatively short and well defined to avoid rope drag. You'll need 7-10 quickdraws or runners and a single cam rack from small to mid range featuring green Aliens, red C3s, and 2 Camalots. Including a #3 Camalot is optional. The route has about 20 bolts and fixed anchors for protection balance.
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