HomeClimbingEl Día del Cactus

El Día del Cactus: Seven Pitches to the Top of King King Buttress

Bernal, Querétaro Mexico
technical
balancy
multi-pitch
water-eroded channel
nopal cactus
scramble
Central Mexico
Length: 720 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
7
Location
El Día del Cactus
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"El Día del Cactus is a seven-pitch sport climb on the King King buttress near Peña de Bernal. It offers a varied sequence of technical, balancy moves combined with smooth, water-eroded channels and large holds, all crowned by sweeping views that reward the ascent."

El Día del Cactus: Seven Pitches to the Top of King King Buttress

Standing at the base of El Día del Cactus, you’re met with a bold silhouette—a seven-pitch sport climb ascending the famed King King buttress that looms over Peña de Bernal. This route is a careful blend of challenge and variety, its character shaped by a mix of technical face climbing, water-polished channels, and surprisingly large holds that invite both focus and flow. The approach itself sets the tone, a slippery slab smeared with lichen that demands respect and use of a rope despite what the modest grade suggests. The rock here carries the scars and smooth curves shaped by water over years, turning up a playground for balance and precision.

Pitch one immediately asserts itself with a 5.12a/b grade, offering a technical test of balance on a sometimes dirt-slicked face. The bolt line veers left after the first clip, guiding you along its less obvious path with a steady pulse of commitment. After that, the mood softens briefly on pitch two, where an inviting water-eroded channel with generous hands and feet lets fatigue soften with fun movement. You'll be reminded that climbing isn’t only about grit but rhythm.

Pitches three and four push through sharper contours and requiring a bit of scrambling past dirt ledges, giving a welcome change of pace and a chance to catch your breath while still climbing upward. The fifth pitch demands focus again, balancing vertical moves on a 5.11a face that feels like solving a subtle puzzle of holds. As you progress, pitch six tags with crimpy sequences on steep rock that mellow out into more forgiving featured holds, testing finger strength and endurance before the final pitch.

The seventh pitch is a relaxing finale with large holds guiding you toward the summit, yet a dirt scramble dotted with towering nopal cacti adds a rugged flavor. Here, a metal cable offers security along the last stretch, steering you left to a top anchor equipped for a double rappel. Whether you pause to drink in the panoramic views of Central Mexico or prepare for the descent, the feeling is of having climbed a route that demands both body and mind.

Gear up with at least 15 quickdraws and a 70-meter rope; carrying a couple of extended draws smooths tricky clipping sequences. The approach is as much a part of the experience as the climbing itself. Though rated a 5.5, the slick slab feels more like a cautious 5.7, so take your time and keep that rope handy. This climb combines intense sections with rewarding rests, perfect for climbers who enjoy shifting tempo and strong technical footwork.

Planning your time here? Morning ascents benefit from cooler rock and less direct sun on the wall’s orientation, while late afternoon light fills the vantage points with golden warmth. Be mindful of loose dirt on the scramble portions and keep an eye out for the metal cable that guards the final reach. Descending requires rappelling from anchors placed thoughtfully at the top and partway down the last pitch, so double-check gear before committing.

El Día del Cactus stands out as an adventure with a solid structure beneath its rugged charm. It’s a climb that offers a tangible connection to the rock and landscape around Peña de Bernal — demanding skill, rewarding focus, and offering a soaring perspective on the Central Mexican wilds.

Climber Safety

Beware the lichen-covered approach slab at the route's base—it commands a rope for safety despite the modest climbing grade. On the final pitch, loose dirt and the abundance of nopal cactus require careful navigation; using the installed metal cable is essential to prevent slips or injury. Double-check rappelling anchors before descent.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches7
Length720 feet

Local Tips

Always use a rope on the approach slab; it can be slippery and feels harder than rated.

Early morning climbing offers cooler temperatures and better friction on the rock.

Watch for dirt accumulation on ledges and scramble sections—footing can be loose.

Use the metal cable on the final pitch scramble to safely navigate past nopal cacti before reaching the top.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.12a rating on the first pitch feels true to its technical, balancy nature with some dirt making the moves more committing. The grades in later pitches drop to moderate levels, offering relief and variety. Overall, the climb balances sustained technical difficulty upfront with fun, easier climbing on the upper pitches, making for a climb that tests skill without overwhelming endurance.

Gear Requirements

Bring 15 quickdraws and a 70 meter rope. A couple of extended draws help ease clipping on some pitches but are not strictly essential.

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Tags

technical
balancy
multi-pitch
water-eroded channel
nopal cactus
scramble
Central Mexico