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El Camino Real at Tahquitz Rock: A Classic Trad Climb on the West Face

Idyllwild, California United States
finger crack
friction traverse
lieback crack
multi-pitch
desert climbing
thin protection
Length: 500 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
El Camino Real
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"El Camino Real is a four-pitch trad route on Tahquitz Rock’s West Face that tests your skills with bouldery starts, technical liebacks, and long friction traverses. Combining solid protection with diverse moves, it offers a rewarding climb in the iconic San Jacinto Mountains."

El Camino Real at Tahquitz Rock: A Classic Trad Climb on the West Face

El Camino Real carves a compelling path up the West Face of Tahquitz Rock, offering a trad climbing experience that challenges body and mind across four steep pitches. Starting just above the Fingertrip route, climbers approach a distinctive pine tree—its top long gone—a quiet landmark marking the climb's base. The initial scramble up third-class terrain prepares you for a bold start on pitch one, where a bouldery move left of a narrow crack demands precision and controlled power. Delicate yet firm, this section sets the tone for the route’s balance of technical climbing and rewarding movement.

Pitch two shifts focus to careful footwork and balance, guiding you past two bolts before embarking on a long friction traverse to the left, skimming past additional protection before reaching a belay at the Jungle. This section accentuates the West Face’s varied rock textures, inviting climbers to tune into their senses—feeling the subtle changes in stone and foothold angles as they negotiate this more horizontal rhythm.

The third pitch is the heart of El Camino Real, stretching 80 feet up a classic lieback crack. Here, climbers engage every finger and toe against the granite, navigating a constriction near the top that thins and forces a mental leap of faith over a small runout. The quality of protection improves with a firm piece placed before this section, but the move itself demands calm focus and precise technique. A two-bolt anchor crowns the pitch, giving a moment to catch your breath and appreciate the desert air and expansive views.

Pitch four eases to a 5.8 crack that trends up and left before a rightward traverse joins the famed Jensen's Jaunt route, merging two classic Tahquitz lines into one satisfying conclusion. For those wanting to extend their adventure, an option at the top of pitch three allows access to Traitor Horn, another celebrated climb just around the corner.

Protection for El Camino Real mainly requires thin to two-inch gear, with solid placements offering confidence amid some more sparse sections. The granite demands clean sneaker-like edges for friction and a steady grip on seams and cracks, so climbers should bring a well-rounded rack and remain vigilant about anchor quality, particularly on pitch one’s block ledge.

The approach bridges wilderness and history, beginning with a short trek around the West Face that ascends gently under pine and oak, clocking roughly 10 minutes from the base trailhead. The setting is peaceful but lends a sense of purpose as the rock’s imposing face looms overhead. Tahquitz sits within the San Jacinto Mountains of Southern California, a revered climbing destination where desert winds lean into the granite and sun exposure varies throughout the day.

Climbers targeting El Camino Real should aim for spring or fall when temperatures stay moderate and the wall’s northeast orientation keeps it shaded in the morning but warmed by afternoon rays. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential, especially for the friction traverse and lieback crack where edging precision is key. Hydration and a lightweight pack help maintain focus on the route's sustained challenges.

Descent follows Jensen's Jaunt ridge or can be made via careful downclimbing and scrambling to avoid unnecessary exposure. The route’s protection and anchors are well maintained, yet caution remains vital when moving between belays, especially after exerting maximal effort on the technical pitches.

El Camino Real delivers a balanced trad outing that mixes physicality with mental engagement, rooted in the enduring character of Tahquitz Rock. It offers an excellent next step for climbers ready to push beyond pure sport routes, blending classic cracks, friction moves, and a memorable desert setting into a single, compelling climb.

Climber Safety

Anchors at pitch one sit on a block ledge and require a cautious build. The top of pitch three presents a thinning crack with a small runout—make sure your pro is solid before committing. Watch for loose rock near the start and stay attentive during the traverse on pitch two.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches4
Length500 feet

Local Tips

Approach via Fingertrip trail, then scramble 80 feet to the base marked by a distinctive pine tree stump.

Place a solid piece near the top of pitch three before the thinner, runout section.

Start early in the day to avoid midday heat, particularly in late spring and summer.

Use the junction at pitch three to access Traitor Horn for an extended climbing adventure.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a grade on El Camino Real feels accurate with no significant soft spots. The crux at the bouldery start and the thin crack near the top of pitch three add mental and physical difficulty. Compared to nearby routes like Jensen’s Jaunt, this climb demands tighter technical moves and careful gear placement.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full rack from thin cams to 2-inch sizes to cover crack variations. Fixed bolts help on the traverse, but anchors on pitch one require careful placement. Sticky rubber shoes are essential for friction sections and delicate footholds.

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Tags

finger crack
friction traverse
lieback crack
multi-pitch
desert climbing
thin protection