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El Alebrije: A Short, Pumpy Sport Climb in Piez Descalzos

San Sebastian Tutla, Oaxaca Mexico
stemming
sidepull
shaded
pumpy
short sport climb
Length: 30 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
El Alebrije
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"El Alebrije presents a brief but intense sport climb featuring stemming and sidepull sequences on shaded walls near San Sebastian Tutla. Perfect for climbers looking for a compact challenge within the Piez Descalzos climbing area."

El Alebrije: A Short, Pumpy Sport Climb in Piez Descalzos

El Alebrije offers a concise but demanding test of technique and endurance on a shady sport route tucked within the small climbing area of Piez Descalzos near San Sebastian Tutla. Though brief at just 30 feet, this climb demands precise body positioning, relying heavily on stemming and sidepull grips that engage your core and forearms in equal measure. The wall, shaded for much of the day, invites climbers seeking a shaded challenge away from the heat of central Mexico's sun. Its compact length hides subtle complexity—a series of moves that can sap strength quickly, especially if you're transitioning from the nearby routes and looking for a last push before calling it a day.

Bolted with three fixed points and a secure anchor, protection here is straightforward but minimal, so confidence and control over body tension are required to avoid unnecessary swings on the short lead. The rock texture provides reliable friction, and the holds respond well to deliberate, measured movement. Visitors will appreciate the peaceful atmosphere of Piez Descalzos, with its quiet streets of San Sebastian Tutla lying just minutes away for a proper cool-down or local food pit stop.

Access is simple: a brief walk from the main road leads you to this compact crag offering a handful of climbs lined up neatly along its vertical face. The shaded aspect of El Alebrije makes it ideal for morning or late afternoon sessions, particularly during warmer months when the midday sun intensifies. The route’s pumpy style rewards warm-up and steady pacing—overgripping here leads to a rapid decline in efficiency. Climbers should bring shoes suited for edging and smearing, as well as quickdraws sufficient for three bolts. Hydration remains key, even in the shade, as the dry air can sneak up on you.

Though El Alebrije might not be the standout route in the region, it plays a vital role for climbers working through the local circuit of sport climbs, delivering a focused challenge in a convenient setting. Whether as a final project or a quick afternoon project, it encourages technical climbing practice in a manageable format, perfect for those looking to sharpen their movement skills with a taste of Mexican limestone climbing culture.

Climber Safety

With only three bolts for protection, the lead demands careful movement and body tension to avoid falls or body swings, particularly on the pumpy mid-section. The route’s compact size means confident clipping and avoidance of rope drag are essential.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb early or late to avoid midday heat; the route stays mostly shaded.

Bring at least four quickdraws for safe and efficient clipping.

Warm up thoroughly before attempting to prevent quick pump on the short, powerful moves.

Local markets in San Sebastian Tutla offer great food and hydration options nearby.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10c, El Alebrije presents a stiff, pumpy sequence that feels solid for this grade. The short length concentrates difficulty into powerful moves, so climbers accustomed to longer endurance routes might feel the burn more intensely. Compared to other sport climbs in the area, it’s a focused test of technical core strength rather than sustained endurance.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by 3 bolts spaced along the 30-foot climb, finishing with a bolted anchor. Quickdraws tailored to sport climbing are sufficient here, no additional gear needed.

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Tags

stemming
sidepull
shaded
pumpy
short sport climb