"Egressus is a focused alpine trad route on Mt. Evans offering a blend of delicate slab moves and steeper climbing crowned by a solid chockstone. This single pitch invites climbers to balance risk with rewarding protection in pure high-country style."
Egressus offers climbers a compact yet engaging alpine trad route that challenges both your technique and judgment. Located on the Alpine Lite Cliffs of Mt. Evans, this single-pitch climb covers 115 feet through a transition from less secure slab footing into a steeper wall where protection opportunities improve significantly. The start demands quiet concentration, as small gear placements and delicate footwork are key while trusting minimal holds. As the route angles upward, the rock gains angle and texture, rewarding your steadiness with a reassuring set of larger placements, culminating in a prominent chockstone roughly two-thirds up that anchors the middle section with solid security.
The finishing sequence offers a choice that nudges you toward either a 10-foot layback directly beneath the anchor—requiring both finger strength and balance—or a gentler left-leaning scramble on easier terrain for those seeking a less committing exit. Egressus carries an alpine air: it was first cleaned of loose rock during a rappel inspection, ensuring safer passage, and initially soloed as a top-rope to establish the line before a successful lead ascent. Its Latin namesake, evoking departure and exit, reflects the route’s character as an escape from slab hesitation into steeper exposure.
Situated at 12,700 feet elevation in Colorado’s Alpine Rock zone, it demands sound acclimatization and a keen eye for protection placement, ranging from micro wires to a #4 cam. This route’s gear range highlights the need for a well-rounded rack comfortable with both fine tuning and solid bomber placements. Approach-wise, hikers should be prepared for a moderate trek from established Alpine Lite trailheads, crossing rocky meadows that buzz with alpine winds and wide-open views of surrounding peaks.
Timing a climb like Egressus demands attention—mid-summer mornings present ideal conditions before afternoon thunderstorms rise, and the route’s east-facing wall captures early light while shading in the afternoon heat. The descent is best managed by a single rappel from the anchor, with caution advised on the loose rock near the landing zones.
Egressus isn’t for the faint-hearted: it tests your balance and gear instincts between fragile slab and more confident alpine face climbing. However, it packs a rewarding punch for climbers ready to push past hesitation and experience a route shaped by solid rock, measured risk, and a powerful sense of leaving comfort behind to find something pristine and wild in the high country.
The slab section’s sparse and less secure foot placements require careful movement to avoid slips. Loose blocks were cleaned during inspection, but vigilance remains essential near the start and descent zones. Weather can be unpredictable at altitude; always monitor local conditions.
Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in summer afternoons.
Use precise footwork on the slab start; holds are subtle and protection is sparse.
Prepare for high-altitude conditions and pack sufficient water and layers.
Rappel off the anchor carefully; loose rock can be found near the base.
Required gear ranges from small wires for delicate initial placements up to a #4 cam to secure the steeper sections. Protection improves as the wall steepens, with a large, reliable chockstone providing a strong mid-route anchor point.
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