Edge of Anxiety is a demanding trad climb that merges three distinct routes, offering an extended adventure across Squamish’s iconic granite walls. The ascent covers roughly 800 feet over nine pitches, bringing together the challenge and character of Unfinished Symphony, Anxiety State, and Diamondback. This route stands out for its technical variety and engaging traverse, requiring solid crack skills and confident face climbing.

From the base in The Apron, the climb immediately draws you into Squamish’s raw granite environment, surrounded by towering cliffs that echo the energy of the Pacific Northwest. The first several pitches rise through clean, steep cracks and delicate slabs, demanding precise footwork and steady gear placements. The climb flows seamlessly until reaching the key traversal on the second 10d pitch of Unfinished Symphony. Here, the route veers left, clipping a bolt before a careful downclimb along a vertical slab separating tiers of rock. This section, hovering around 5.9+ difficulty, requires core tension and a calm approach, especially when committing to the leftward traverse.

Handling this move as a lead climber is recommended due to the exposure and the necessity of controlled rope tension. If seconding, placing cams below the bolt can reduce risk but doesn’t eliminate the inherent challenge presented by the vertical drop and minimal holds. After this traverse, the climb resumes on solid features, finishing near the bolt clipped earlier and continuing up Diamondback’s cracks and faces.

Protection on the climb follows the same gear recommendations as Unfinished Symphony. Expect to carry a full rack of cams ranging from small to large sizes, as crack dimensions vary and natural placements are key. Some sections offer fixed protection, but much depends on personal gear skills and comfort with traditional climbing safety.

Squamish’s granite is famously clean, yet weather conditions can alter friction and safety, so timing your ascent during stable, dry periods is vital. The area’s approach trails are well-marked but can be steep and rocky, so sturdy footwear and careful pack planning will make your trek in and out more manageable. The crag sits at about 49.6863 latitude and -123.1474 longitude, placing it in the heart of British Columbia’s climbing mecca.

This route’s exposure and technical demands are not for the casual climber but reward those prepared with a full set of trad gear and a steady mindset. The combination of climbing styles and the striking traverse creates an experience that tests technique and composure in equal measure. If you’re gearing up for Squamish’s more complex link-ups, Edge of Anxiety provides a multi-pitch challenge that blends commitment, skill, and the unmistakable thrill of climbing one of North America’s premier granite walls.