"E.B. is a focused 60-foot trad climb on Davey Rock’s granite face, offering steady crack moves and thoughtful protection placements. Ideal for climbers refining crack technique in a stunning Sierra Eastside setting close to Mammoth Lakes."
E.B. at Davey Rock offers a straightforward yet engaging 60-foot climb that brings you face-to-face with an inviting crack system carved into the right side of the main granite face. This single-pitch, 5.9 PG13 trad route unfolds within the rugged expanse of the Sierra Eastside, just a short journey from Mammoth Lakes, California. From the moment your fingers find purchase in the narrow crack, you become part of an ongoing dialogue with the rock. The climb demands thoughtful placements on tiny to #1 Camalot gear, requiring steady focus and a good feel for protection. Navigating the crack, you’ll experience a subtle sequence of moves that gently shift upward and left, steering toward a shared anchor that connects with the adjacent Pickers climb. The approach to Davey Rock is straightforward, with easy access and a well-traveled trail leading to the base, positioning you close enough to catch the morning sun on the face, making early starts comfortable and energizing.
The granite here wears the character of the Sierra’s sharp, clean edges—it’s dry, firm, and offers the kind of reliable friction that invites confident footwork. Because it’s a relatively short pitch, pacing is key: precise moves and steady gear placements keep the climb flowing without the need to rush. The moderate grade hides a few subtle cruxes that will test your crack climbing technique, especially where the crack narrows and demands tricky finger jams or delicate hand stacks. While the 5.9 rating is approachable for many climbers stepping into solid crack climbing, the PG13 aspect advises careful protection choices and attention to gear placements, as the anchor setup requires familiarity with traditional gear and safe lowering techniques.
Located in the greater Mammoth Lakes region, Davey Rock offers more than just this climb. Its proximity to the forested expanse of Rock Creek provides ample opportunity to explore a rugged landscape where pine scents linger on the breeze and high desert colors shift across the horizon. It’s a dependable choice for climbers seeking a focused experience away from crowded routes, but close enough to town for quick supply runs or a warm meal after the climb.
In terms of logistics, the short approach means you can plan for a half-day outing, allowing extra time on the rock or to explore nearby climbs. Early spring to late fall sees the best conditions, avoiding winter snow or late monsoon rains. Strong climbers will appreciate the straightforward beta, while those newer to crack climbing will find a valuable training ground—if they come prepared with the right gear and a respect for the PG-rated elements. Whether you're stepping into crack climbing or topping off your Sierra trad tick list, E.B. delivers practical challenge wrapped in authentic Sierra granite texture.
Gear placements require attention—while the crack accepts a range of cams, some spots are shallow or flared, demanding careful selection and experienced judgment. The lower-off anchor is shared and can become crowded; double-check all hardware before rappelling.
Start early to catch the morning sun on the climb's face.
Practice precise crack placements to feel secure on marginal gear.
Lower off the shared anchor with Pickers—check the slings and locking carabiners before descending.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for confident foot jams on the granite.
Gear needed ranges from tiny placements to #1 Camalot cams, essential for securing protection along the crack and at the anchor. Bring a standard trad rack with emphasis on small to medium cams.
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