"Eat My Lichen is a focused trad climb in Boulder Canyon, featuring a standout splitter hand crack and a mix of delicate face holds. This single-pitch route offers an accessible but precise crack climbing experience, perfect for trad climbers honing their gear placement and jam technique."
Eat My Lichen offers a compact but fulfilling trad route tucked deep within the rugged contours of Boulder Canyon. Its 110-foot single pitch ventures up a series of opposing features that demand both technique and a sharp eye for gear placements. From the first moves, the rock speaks—solid and clean enough to inspire confidence, yet requiring a bit of subtle finesse as you thread protection into scattered cracks. About five meters up, a handful of nuts and small cams fit snugly into ledges and corners, offering sure footing as you navigate a curving thin dihedral. Transitioning onto a wide crack, the climb opens into an inviting face section where optional six-inch pro might soothe the anxiety of leaders reaching across larger holds.
The heart of the climb lies in a surprisingly smooth splitter hand crack, a near-perfect 2.5-inch seam that calls for controlled jams and steady rhythm. Above this, the route bends under a roof, demanding careful gear placements with smaller cams and a purposeful rightward traverse into a right-facing corner. The exposure here is moderate—challenging without overwhelming—and protection is plentiful if you keep your gear rack ready with a variety of cams and nuts, especially larger stoppers for crux spots. The final stretch leads to a ledge where you can set a solid belay, anchored with a long cordalette around a flake and backed by cams in a crack.
Approaching the climb takes you through a rugged, yet manageable trail system in Lower Dream Canyon. The path offers shifting terrain, balancing forested sections with rocky clearings that hint at the climb's raw alpine character. Its proximity to Boulder ensures accessibility without sacrificing the wilderness feel. After the ascent, the descent follows a short scramble down and across to familiar terrain near the Berlin Wall route—an efficient walk-off that keeps the adventure flowing without complex rappel setups.
Eat My Lichen is well-suited for trad climbers seeking a moderate challenge that rewards sharp crack climbing skills and careful gear management. Its blend of hand jams, face holds, and subtle roof transitions keeps the sequence engaging yet straightforward. Prepare with a rack ranging from small cams to hexes, plus plenty of nuts and slings to accommodate the route's occasional ledge or corner placements. Timing your climb during dry, stable weather is key; the route’s rock remains reliable under a clear sky, and afternoon shade on the wall offers relief during summer climbs.
This climb embodies a down-to-earth trad experience in the Colorado high country—accessible, technically satisfying, and quietly rewarding. Whether you're refining crack techniques or testing your gear placements under moderate exposure, Eat My Lichen invites you to connect with Boulder Canyon’s distinctive climbing rhythm.
Watch your placements near the roof section where smaller cams must be placed precisely to maintain security. The descent involves some scrambling toward the Berlin Wall approach area—stay alert on loose rock and avoid backtracking over exposed terrain.
Approach via Lower Dream Canyon trail; the hike is moderate and marked but involves some uneven terrain.
Bring a variety of nuts and slings to adapt to the crack variations and protect tricky transitions.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat; the wall gains shade as the day progresses, making climbs more comfortable in summer.
After climbing, descend by scrambling down toward the Berlin Wall route area; avoid unnecessary rappels for a quicker exit.
Bring a full trad rack including a range of cams from small to 3 inches, nuts in various sizes, plus larger stoppers or hexes to bolster protection in wider placements. A 6-inch cam (#6 C4 or equivalent) is optional for reaching across the wide crack section. Slings are essential as the route zigzags between cracks and corners requiring extensions and careful placements. For anchoring at the top, a long cordalette combined with cams provides a secure belay setup.
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