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Easy Street: Classic Beginner Trad Climbing on the West End

Canmore, Alberta Canada
trad
multi-pitch
beginner
crack climbing
bow valley
alberta
west end
route-finding
Length: 800 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
6
Location
Easy Street
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Easy Street is a standout beginner trad climb on Canmore’s West End, featuring six engaging pitches across solid granite. Perfect for those stepping into multi-pitch trad, it challenges with varied crack and face climbing while rewarding steady route-finding and solid protection."

Easy Street: Classic Beginner Trad Climbing on the West End

Easy Street stands out as a welcoming gateway into the adventurous world of traditional climbing on the West End. Stretching over six pitches and roughly 800 feet of granite, this route offers a balanced blend of straightforward moves and engaging terrain that remains approachable for climbers starting to step into multi-pitch trad climbing. The rock itself is solid and textured, providing reliable handholds and placements that inspire confidence while inviting careful exploration.

Located within the rugged Bow Valley near Canmore, Alberta, Easy Street weaves its way up a fractured pillar, perched on the right flank of the iconic West End crag. From the ground up, the climb challenges you to read broken features while hunting for secure protection—a task that sharpens your route-finding skills without pushing well beyond the beginner grade. Expect a sequence of crack climbs interspersed with face sections, traverses, and chimneying, giving a varied movement profile that refreshes the senses as you ascend.

Pitch One kicks off directly on the right side of the broken pillar. You'll find yourself locking into a right-hand crack, passing two vintage pins that add historical character to the line. Midway, a brief leftward sidestep to face climb offers a welcome change before returning to the crack—ending at a two-bolt belay ledge. From here, the second pitch leads you left across a traverse dotted with pins before rising up a ramp into a gully that morphs into Kings Chimney. This segment rewards steady footwork and an eye for subtle holds, with a secure double-bolt anchor awaiting on a sheltered ledge.

Pitches three through five wrinkle the experience further, moving over slabby faces, grooves, and cracks. These pitches emphasize smooth balance and technique more than strenuous effort, with many ledges and natural features offering spots to rest or reevaluate your moves. BBQ Ledge—at the top of pitch five—is a large, comfortable platform perfect for regrouping before the final stretch. The sixth pitch gives climbers the opportunity to select from several established West End exits, neatly wrapping up the journey.

Protection is straightforward: a standard trad rack suffices here, with the occasional fixed pin or bolt easing protection placement and belay setups. Belays are mostly bolted, making transitions secure and dependable, but route-finding demands attention, especially in the broken sections where the rock can fragment. Climbers should bring patience alongside gear, and anticipate spending extra time dialing in the correct path.

In addition to the technical aspects, the setting enhances the climb’s appeal—a brisk alpine breeze cuts through the nearby pine stands and carries faint bird calls up the wall. Below, the valley stretches out with sweeping views of the surrounding peaks and the distant silhouette of the Rockies. These environmental details keep the experience grounded in the wild reality of mountain adventure, reminding you of the freshness and calm that comes with every pitch.

Timing your climb is key; morning ascents offer crisp air and shaded rock faces turning sunnier afternoons into perfect moments for rest or a gentle cool-down. Hydration and footwear tailored to crack work will maximize comfort and performance, especially in the early season, while layering to adjust to changing weather rounds out preparation.

Whether you’re stepping up from single-pitch climbs or looking to hone your multi-pitch skills, Easy Street on the West End is a reliable choice. Its accessibility balanced by genuine climbing challenges makes it a favorite among locals and visitors alike. Put simply, this route invites you to engage with one of Alberta’s classic trad lines with confidence and curiosity, promising an experience that’s as educational as it is rewarding.

Climber Safety

Broken rock sections call for vigilance in placing solid protection and careful foot placement. The route’s runout spots require maintaining focus on movement and gear, especially in pitches with fewer fixed anchors.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches6
Length800 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy morning shade and cooler rock temperatures.

Bring extra cord or webbing for extended belays around bolts and trees.

Wear climbing shoes with good edging and crack-friendly fit.

Stay alert on route-finding; some sections have broken rock and require careful navigation.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6 PG13
Quality
Consensus:While rated 5.6 PG13, Easy Street’s grade feels approachable with manageable cruxes and mostly straightforward crack climbing. The PG13 rating hints at occasional runout sections where protection can be sparse, encouraging cautious but confident movement reminiscent of other West End classics.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack covers gear needs here, complemented by bolts on most belays. Expect to place cams and nuts with some aid from fixed pins. No specialized equipment beyond basics is required.

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Tags

trad
multi-pitch
beginner
crack climbing
bow valley
alberta
west end
route-finding