HomeClimbingEasy Steps

Easy Steps Trad Climb at Mount Nemo

Hamilton, Canada
left corner
clean protection
beginner friendly
single pitch
moderate grade
forest approach
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Easy Steps
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Easy Steps in Mount Nemo is a straightforward trad climb featuring a clean, left-facing corner perfect for those developing trad techniques. Its accessible approach and reliable protection make it a prime choice for beginners seeking solid climbing with forested calm nearby."

Easy Steps Trad Climb at Mount Nemo

Easy Steps offers an accessible introduction to traditional climbing at the southern edge of Ontario’s Golden Horseshoe region. Emerging from the wooded confines of Gooseberry Gully, climbers approach a pronounced left-facing corner that slices through the rock face like a natural staircase, inviting hands and feet to ascend with a steady rhythm. The rock’s texture provides reassurance under fingertips, while the surrounding pines whisper softly with each shifting breeze, setting a calm yet focused atmosphere. This single-pitch route, stretching approximately 40 feet, rewards novices with straightforward moves up an obvious weakness in the cliff, making it an ideal setting to practice fundamental trad skills.

Approach trails from the parking area wind southward under a canopy of mixed hardwoods, offering well-defined, dry paths that typically take 10-15 minutes on easy terrain. The access is gradual and welcoming, allowing climbers to arrive with energy reserved for the climb itself. The corner at Easy Steps features solid, clean rock with ample options for placing a variety of protection—ranging from small cams to medium-sized nuts—so you can confidently build anchors and protect each move. The protection quality is high, a vital advantage when learning to lead on trad routes.

Easy Steps is graded 5.3 on the YDS scale, typifying an approachable climb without hidden cruxes or technical challenges that might overwhelm beginners. The angles lean into an intuitive style, where balance and basic crack skills carry the day. For those looking to expand theirFootwork precision and placement technique, it presents a perfect balance of comfort and just enough challenge to grow. The route benefits from a southern aspect, making it an excellent choice during cooler months or morning sessions when the sun hasn’t fully warmed the cliff face.

Local advice underscores the importance of sturdy hiking shoes for the approach, and a medium set of cams and nuts ready for placements along the corner. Weather conditions are generally stable in spring through fall, but caution is advised after rains, as the approach can become slick, and the rock holds moisture longer in shaded areas. A quick inspection of protection placements before committing to lead ensures safety remains front and center.

After topping out, descending is straightforward with a short walk off the south side of the cliff that leads back toward the trailhead. This allows you to stay grounded and alert, providing space for reflection on the climb and preparation for another attempt or venture elsewhere in the Mount Nemo bouldering and climbing complex.

Easy Steps serves not only as a practical training ground for beginning trad climbers but also as a touchstone to the region’s approachable climbing style and terrain. Its balance of easy access, reliable protection, and moderate grade creates a welcoming stage for anyone eager to step into traditional climbing or add a relaxed, scenic route to their climbing log. Whether you’re polishing skills or savoring the quiet forest setting at Gooseberry Gully, this climb offers a refreshing blend of nature’s calm and the pure thrill of upward progress.

Climber Safety

While protection is excellent, always double-check gear placements for security, especially younger climbers or newcomers. The approach can be slick after rain, so watch your footing to avoid slips before you even reach the climb.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Use sturdy hiking shoes for the approach trail through Gooseberry Gully.

Check protection placements carefully—good gear spots abound but subtle rock features require attention.

Morning climbs are best to avoid the southern sun’s full heat on the rock.

After rainfall, take extra caution on potentially slippery approach paths and damp rock surfaces.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.3
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.3, Easy Steps sits comfortably within the beginner trad range, with a straightforward corner that feels true to grade. There are no hidden difficulties or technical cruxes, making it an inviting climb to build fundamental crack skills and lead confidence without feeling stiff. Compared to nearby routes in Mount Nemo, it leans toward the gentle side with consistently solid holds and placements.

Gear Requirements

A medium set of cams and nuts is perfect for protecting the left-facing corner. Excellent placement opportunities make it ideal for learners gaining confidence with trad gear.

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Tags

left corner
clean protection
beginner friendly
single pitch
moderate grade
forest approach