"Easy Crack presents an accessible trad climb on Keller Peak’s Hungover Wall, blending stem moves, crack technique, and a moderate bulge crux. Ideal for honing foundational skills in a classic San Bernardino setting."
The Easy Crack on the right side of Hungover Wall offers a rewarding introduction to traditional climbing in the San Bernardino Mountains. This 60-foot route begins with an unusual stem off a prominent boulder, immediately establishing a dynamic connection between body and rock. For those seeking a stiffer challenge, a direct start climbs at 5.10, but the stem option eases you into the climb with grace. As you ascend the offset crack, the rock invites exploration with plentiful face holds that provide secure hand and foot placements, encouraging steady movement and rhythm. Midway, a brief bulge demands focused technique—a thoughtful sequence of stemming and hand jams leads you past this crux toward a spacious ledge where breathing room eases tension.
From the ledge, a clean finger and hand crack guides you to the ring anchors, offering a reliable and comforting top-out. The climb’s moderate grade and straightforward length make it an excellent choice for climbers eager to hone crack climbing skills while enjoying the quiet charm of Keller Peak’s granite features. The rock’s texture is friendly but not soft, presenting solid friction that rewards precise footwork and deliberate gear placements.
Gear up with a rack that extends to 3 inches to secure your protection—placements feel mostly reliable if thoughtfully chosen, with fixed ring anchors waiting at the summit. The route’s single pitch allows for a focused adventure, and the backdrop of the sun-dappled San Bernardino Mountains emphasizes the blending of challenge and quiet wilderness.
Planning your climb here means anticipating typical mountain conditions—mornings bring crisp air and shade on the right wall face, while afternoons brighten the ledge area, making late morning or early afternoon prime climbing hours. The approach from the Running Springs area is accessible but demands attention to the sharp elevation gain and occasional brush, rewarding those who arrive prepared with sturdy footwear and sufficient water.
Whether you’re stepping into traditional crack climbing or adding a reliable 5.8 to your repertoire, Easy Crack offers an approachable yet engaging route that balances technique and exposure. It’s a refreshing slice of the San Bernardino climbing scene where nature’s character challenges and supports in equal measure.
The bulge section demands careful movement and solid gear placements as protection tightens there. While ring anchors at the top are trustworthy, inspect them carefully as natural exposure increases near the anchors. The approach has loose rock and uneven footing—move cautiously, especially when loaded with gear.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the approach trail.
Footwear with sticky rubber improves traction on the face holds.
Double-check ring anchors before rappelling.
Water and sun protection are important; the approach crosses exposed sections.
Bring a full set of traditional gear up to 3-inch cams. Ring anchors are in place at the top for a secure rappel or lowering. Gear placements are generally straightforward but require attention especially near the bulge.
Upload your photos of Easy Crack and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.