"East Spire: Up The Creek is a concise, single-pitch sport climb delivering a seamless blend of low-angle climbing, technical traversing, and solid protection. Perfect for climbers stepping into Colorado’s Phantom Canyon scene, it balances approachable movement with the raw character of the canyonside."
East Spire: Up The Creek offers a focused, accessible climb that captures the essence of Phantom Canyon’s rugged charm just outside Canon City, Colorado. This single-pitch sport route spans 55 feet of inviting rock, weaving along a low-angle dihedral before riding upward to a prominent arete. Once reaching this edge, climbers traverse left across the face, a move that mixes technical balance with subtle route-reading. The rock here has a steady texture — solid enough to trust your gear yet demanding enough to stay sharp on your feet. This approach keeps you connected to the landscape’s raw geological character, framed by the canyon’s steep walls and the sky opening above.
Phantom Canyon itself is an outdoor playground known for its varied terrain, where dry, sun-bleached rock draws climbers eager for routes that reward focus and fluid movement. The route’s modest length and moderate 5.9 rating make it a solid next step for those aiming to push into sport climbing without overwhelming complexity. For visitors planning their visit, the approach is straightforward, heading into the heart of the canyon with clear access points and reliable footing. A light rack focused on quickdraws suffices, thanks to the five bolts encountered along the way, which provide security and let the climber emphasize movement over gear placement.
Timing your ascent mid-morning offers an optimal balance of sunlight washing over the wall's face, while afternoons bring shade and cooling relief — especially welcome in warmer seasons. The climb’s south-facing orientation invites early warmth but also warns of peak summer heat, so packing hydration and choosing cooler times enhances your experience. At the top, the two-bolt anchor sits patiently, ready for a smooth descent and giving climbers a moment to survey the canyon’s vertical drama before heading back.
Safety on East Spire: Up The Creek focuses on respecting the route’s fixed hardware and maintaining awareness on the traverse. Although the bolts and anchor enforce security, the rock’s surface demands clean footwork during the transition leftward. The area generally sees dry conditions, but after storms, the rock can feel slick, so give the wall time to dry fully before attempting a push.
This climb is a rewarding conflict between nature’s steady call and your personal challenge. It suits climbers eager to sharpen their sport game while soaking in the rugged beauty of one of Colorado’s cherished climbing pockets. With manageable length, clear protection, and a route that encourages movement rather than brute strength, Up The Creek offers a refreshing stop on your climbing journey through Phantom Canyon.
Fixed bolts provide reliable protection, but take care during the traverse—foot placements can be tricky, and a slip could lead to a swing. Also, avoid climbing when the rock is damp to reduce the risk of losing grip.
Approach early morning for sun-warmed rock and quieter trail conditions.
Pack plenty of water—summer can get warm on this south-facing wall.
Check weather forecasts and avoid climbing right after rainfall to ensure dry holds.
Stay left on the traverse to maintain secure footwork and maximize balance.
Five bolts secure the route steadily to a two-bolt anchor up top. A light rack of quickdraws is all you need to focus on flow and balance.
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