"The East Face of the East Pinnacle offers a commanding 800-foot trad climb over five pitches within Colorado’s Hayden Spires. Featuring a key dihedral crux, ample protection, and exposed alpine terrain, this route balances engaging climbing with serious mountain atmosphere."
Rising sharply within the raw expanse of Colorado’s Hayden Spires, the East Face of the East Pinnacle commands attention as the area’s most substantial alpine wall. This granite giant stretches roughly 800 feet over five pitches, tracing a route that blends straightforward approach terrain with a striking dihedral climb that tests both endurance and technique. The journey begins at the base with a short scramble over mellow rock, which quickly transitions into the heart of the climb: a prominent vertical dihedral on the southern edge of the face. Here, the rock demands confident stemming and thoughtful footwork, rewarding climbers with secure holds and clear lines. The second pitch acts as the climb’s fulcrum, a solid 5.9 crux where the granite’s texture and features invite you to move deliberately yet fluidly. Above, broad ledges offer a moment to recalibrate and scan your envisioned path to the summit. Protection is straightforward, standard alpine gear fits this route’s demands with ample placements found throughout the dihedral system, ensuring security on exposed sections. Though the rock rarely strays into extreme terrain, climbers will sense the altitude and wall exposure as factors to respect. Approaches wind through high alpine forest and rocky trails, making the entire experience as much about immersion in this wild corner of the Rocky Mountains as the climbing itself. For those aiming to climb solo or on a tidy rope team, timing your ascent to avoid afternoon storms and afternoon sun on the face will enhance comfort and safety. Descending is facilitated by a mix of rappels and careful downclimbing, weaving through ledges with enough room to move steadily but demanding attention to detail. The East Face of the East Pinnacle stands as a meaningful objective for traditional climbers craving alpine adventure, blending technical movement with the elemental challenge of Colorado’s high country.
Watch for loose rock near the ledges after the crux pitch—while generally solid, a careful hand and helmet are essential. Also, the approach can be tricky in early season when snow patches linger unexpectedly.
Start early to avoid afternoon exposure and typical afternoon storms.
Bring sturdy footwear with good edging for the mix of easy approach and technical footwork on rock.
Plan for 4–6 hours from approach to summit including climbing and descent.
Check weather carefully; conditions change rapidly in alpine environments.
A standard alpine rack covers the needed protection here, with plenty of natural placements along the dihedral. Medium cams and nuts provide secure anchors for each pitch.
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