HomeClimbingEast Face Crack Variation

East Face Crack Variation

Glenwood Springs, Colorado United States
thin crack
single pitch
gear to 2 inches
shared anchor
east facing
Glenwood Canyon
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
East Face Crack Variation
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A subtle but more demanding take on the East Face Crack, this route winds through a thin, zigzagging crack along Glenwood Canyon’s Airy Block. Ideal for trad enthusiasts ready to test their gear skills and technique within a striking Colorado setting."

East Face Crack Variation

The East Face Crack Variation presents a precise and rewarding trad climb tucked along the weathered edges of Glenwood Canyon’s Airy Block. This route offers more than just a simple line up the rock—it challenges you with its thin, twisting crack that pushes upward in deliberate, zigzagging moves. Starting along the same footpath as the original East Face Crack, climbers soon veer left from the shared ledge, entering a realm where steady technique and confident gear placements define success.

Here, the rock listens and responds to your every move: the crack tightens and opens just enough to fit gear placements up to 2 inches, demanding patience and a calm mind. The vertical face, etched with subtle textures and natural holds, elevates the experience from a straightforward climb to an engaging puzzle requiring focus.

At roughly 60 feet, this single-pitch climb strikes a balance between attainable and challenging — perfect for trad climbers looking to expand their skillset in the Glenwood Springs area. The approach is straightforward and accessible, making it ideal for a half-day outing that blends solid climbing with the striking vistas of the surrounding canyon.

Glenwood Canyon’s rugged walls absorb the midday sun, but on cooler days, the east-facing aspect warms the climber just enough without inviting overheating. Your ascent offers intermittent glimpses of the canyon’s sweeping views—contrasting the intimacy of the crack with the vastness of the Colorado landscape.

Safety here hinges on respecting the gear requirements and familiarizing yourself with the shared anchor system. The rock tends to be secure but can test placements in thinner sections. Bringing a full rack with a reliable set of cams up to 2 inches ensures you’re ready for these nuanced cracks. Rental or borrowed gear should be inspected carefully before committing to the climb.

For those new to Glenwood Canyon or trad climbing, timing your climb in the early morning or late afternoon helps avoid peak heat and potential crowding. Hydrating thoroughly and choosing sturdy shoes suited to crack climbing will enhance both your efficiency and enjoyment. The route’s modest length and single pitch make it a perfect step toward longer, multi-pitch adventures within the broader canyon.

When the climb ends and you reach the shared anchor ledge, take a moment to soak in the hush of air moving through the canyon walls, daring you to return and explore more of Glenwood Springs’ varied rock faces. This variation isn’t just an alternate route—it’s an invitation to refine skills, savor the details of high-quality crack climbing, and embrace a practical yet vibrant outdoor challenge.

Climber Safety

Pay close attention to gear placements; the narrow crack sections require cams up to 2 inches and trusting the shared anchor system used with the adjacent route. The rock is solid but can challenge the confidence of less experienced gear runners.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures and avoid crowds.

Wear climbing shoes with strong edging and crack-handling capability.

Check all gear carefully before the climb due to narrow crack placements.

Hydrate well and bring snacks for a relaxed half-day outing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.9, this climb sits squarely in the realm of approachable challenges, but the thin, zigzagging crack can push effort levels slightly higher than the grade suggests. Climbers with a background on moderate trad routes will find familiar moves, though the sustained crack demands consistent focus on gear placements and clean technique, making the rating fair but with a noticeable crux in the lateral transitions.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack with cams up to 2 inches. The route shares a reliable anchor with the Crack East Face and requires careful gear placement in tight crack sections.

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Tags

thin crack
single pitch
gear to 2 inches
shared anchor
east facing
Glenwood Canyon