"A compact, single-pitch traditional climb just outside Glenwood Springs, East Face Crack offers a solid introduction to crack climbing with reliable hand jams and approachable moves. Its accessible grade and stunning canyon backdrop make it an inviting spot for a quick adventure."
The East Face Crack presents a focused and approachable traditional climb that slices through the rock face of Roadside Fin in Glenwood Canyon, just outside Glenwood Springs, Colorado. This single-pitch route, measuring a compact 60 feet, offers climbers a straightforward challenge wrapped in a raw, natural setting. Beginning with a bouldery move that tests balance and precision, you will skirt a wild rose bush—its thorny branches guarding the entrance—before settling into a rhythm of solid hand jams within the double crack system. These jams demand confidence and technique, rewarding you with the satisfying grip of perfectly shaped fissures that invite your hands to sink deeply and lock in place. The final mantle onto the upper ledge requires a measured push, blending upper-body strength with finesse to claim the anchor spot.
The environment around the climb heightens the experience: the canyon air is cool and sharp, often carrying the subtle scent of juniper and pine from the nearby forest edges. The wall’s orientation ensures that mornings bring early warmth without baking heat, making spring and fall the prime seasons to visit. Despite this route’s accessible rating of 5.8, the climb demands respect, especially in the protection department. Adequate gear up to three inches in size is essential to secure placements in the crack’s variable widths and maintain safety throughout the ascent.
Glenwood Canyon’s Roadside Fin is a climbing locale that blends accessibility with rugged beauty. Its proximity to Glenwood Springs means you can easily combine climbing with soaking in local hot springs or refueling at nearby eateries. The canyon itself channels a steady drone of the Colorado River below, which dares you onward, its currents unyielding and persistent. Approaching the climb is a breeze—under a mile on a well-worn trail—and the short hike means your energy can stay reserved for the rock rather than the trek.
For climbers eager to break into traditional crack climbing or those seeking a quick but rewarding challenge amid stunning scenery, East Face Crack offers a straightforward and satisfying outing. This route’s modest length and accessible grade invite all skill levels while providing ample opportunity to sharpen hand jam technique and crack climbing confidence. With careful preparation, especially ensuring you bring appropriate protection, this distinctive crack in Glenwood Canyon will deliver both the thrill and the grounding presence of the Colorado outdoors.
Watch for loose rock near the initial bouldery move and ensure a solid set of protection in the crack; gear placements can be tricky without attention to sizing and placement depth. The approach is easy but can be slippery after rain, so tread carefully.
Approach via the well-marked trail less than a mile from the parking area.
Spring and fall offer the best climbing temperatures with minimal sun exposure.
Wear shoes with good friction for the initial bouldery move behind the rose bush.
Double-check your pro placements in the wide sections to maintain safety.
Bring a full trad rack with cams up to 3 inches for secure placements in the double crack system. Stoppers and nuts can supplement, but larger cams are critical for proper protection.
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