The East Buttress in the Seven Gables area offers a memorable alpine trad climb, stretching roughly 1000 feet over ten pitches. It’s the kind of route that blends steady moderate moves with a few steeper crack challenges, all framed by the rugged granite of California’s High Sierra. From the first step on the wide dike to the final crack-lined prow, this route provides climbers with a genuine sense of mountain adventure without veering into technical obscurity.

Starting with a 30-meter 5.6 rise up an angled slab and dike, you immediately feel the solid granite beneath your fingers, a welcome contrast to the chossier ledge just above. As you move through the second pitch, the route angles left around flakes and edges, leading into a belay spot perched just above a triangular ledge without an anchor—good focus spot for careful placements.

Pitch three rewards with exposures along a right-facing corner that rolls into a headwall before easing onto a blocky ledge speckled with hardy plants, proof of life even at these elevations. The climb maintains a rhythmic balance, alternating between sustained crack systems and easier ramp sections, providing both breathing room and bursts of technical climbing.

The fifth and sixth pitches ramp up with steeper crack climbing—5.9 moves demanding solid hand and finger jams on fingers to offwidth cracks. These pitches are where the route’s character sharpens, testing your crack climbing technique while offering protection with a well-considered double rack of cams and stoppers. The protection is mostly straightforward but requires attention to sizing and placement as the granite edges defy loose gear.

Transitioning into the upper pitches, the East Buttress introduces some route-finding challenges around towers and notches, where scrambling down and laterally can feel as integral as the vertical moves. Loose blocks or small sections of crumbly rock call for increased awareness, particularly as the route draws near the top.

The final pitch involves a leftward traverse following a crack onto a pronounced prow, finishing with a satisfying push to the summit. Throughout the climb, the granite displays the classic High Sierra texture—solid, slightly textured, with well-defined cracks that dare you to trust your jamming skills.

Approaching East Buttress demands both physical readiness and a good understanding of alpine terrain. The hike in from the Pine Creek trailhead involves several miles through open granite bowls and forest stands, so plan for at least several hours of approach and descent combined. Morning starts help avoid afternoon thunderstorms, common in summer, and cooler temperatures keep the rock grippy.

Gear wise, a double set of cams ranging from 0.3 to 3 inches, paired with stoppers and a couple of larger pieces around 4 inches, makes for a balanced rack. The climbing is typically well-protected when placements are chosen carefully, but expect some sections with less straightforward gear options, especially in the offwidths and wider cracks.

This route stands as an approachable but engaging alpine trad challenge, ideal for climbers wanting to experience the granite faces of the High Sierra with a route that mixes solid movement, route-finding, and alpine exposure. The rock quality exceeds expectations for a route of this nature in this area, lending confidence as you negotiate the cruxes and enjoy the sweeping views below.

In preparation, focus on hydration and layered clothing to handle shifting mountain weather. Durable shoes with sticky rubber and sticky fingers help tame the granite’s texture. And always keep an eye on the sky—storm cells can form quickly above 10,000 feet.

East Buttress is a worthy addition to any climber’s High Sierra itinerary, offering a balanced blend of straightforward alpine trad and technical climbing that leaves plenty of room for both adventure and skill development. This climb invites you to move deliberately and thoughtfully through a high mountain environment that demands respect but rewards with spectacular alpine granite climbing and expansive views across Humphreys Basin.