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Earth Trip: A Prime Introduction to Trad Climbing in Smoke Bluffs

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
crack climb
beginner friendly
single pitch
trad gear
granite
shadowed route
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Earth Trip
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Earth Trip is a welcoming 30-foot crack climb in The Smoke Bluffs, perfect for climbers stepping into traditional lead climbing. With solid gear options and a moderate 5.6 rating, it offers a hands-on classroom for honing crack skills and rack confidence amidst British Columbia’s granite."

Earth Trip: A Prime Introduction to Trad Climbing in Smoke Bluffs

Earth Trip offers an inviting first challenge for trad climbers eager to step up to the rack in one of British Columbia's premier climbing spots. Located in the heart of The Smoke Bluffs near Squamish, this route presents a clean, right-facing corner crack that beckons both rookies and those refining their crack climbing technique. The climb stretches 30 feet and is packed with positive features—a steady crack wide enough to accommodate cams up to 2 inches, making gear placement straightforward and reassuring. As you move upward, the rock’s texture grips confidently beneath your fingertips, with enough holds to build momentum while focusing on precise, safe placements.

The approach to Earth Trip is comfortably accessible within The Smoke Bluffs, a popular climbing area known for its rugged granite faces and easy trail networks that invite climbers of all levels. Elevation gain is moderate, with a short trek that pushes your anticipation higher than your heart rate. The surrounding environment—the cool whisper of coastal air, the distant rustle of forest branches, and occasional birdcalls—calms nerves before you mount the route.

This climb’s grade of 5.6 adheres to the classic lower range of trad difficulty but demands solid technique and commitment. It’s an excellent practice ground for new leaders to build confidence in traditional gear placements and crack climbing moves without feeling overwhelmed. The single pitch ascends smoothly but provides enough features to keep a climber actively engaged with the rock, avoiding any flat, uninspiring stretches.

Protection is straightforward with a standard rack up to 2 inches sufficient to secure your progress. A well-established anchor awaits at the top for a secure belay or rappel setup. Climbers should note that although some may consider tying off to a nearby tower, this practice is discouraged to preserve fragile structures and respect local guidelines.

Seasonally, Earth Trip shines throughout the late spring to early fall when Squamish’s weather tends to settle into dry, stable patterns. The route’s orientation shelters it from harsh afternoon sun, offering a comfortable climb even on warmer days. Early mornings boast crisp air, perfect for cooling muscles before the push upward.

After topping out, the descent is a straightforward downclimb or a quick rappel from the fixed gear, so packing a lightweight rack and cordalette is smart for off-route flexibility. Local climbers recommend harnessing patience and focus on this route to build a solid foundation of trad skills, setting the stage for more demanding challenges in the Bluffs beyond.

Earth Trip blends accessibility with practical training in a natural, wild setting. It welcomes climbers to the fundamentals of crack climbing and gear placement, wrapped in the fresh Pacific Northwest atmosphere. Fresh granite, reliable protection, and a gentle introduction to the Bluffs’ unique character make this route a must-try for emerging trad enthusiasts gearing up for their next ascent.

Climber Safety

While the crack offers solid protection, ensure your gear placements are well secured up to 2 inches to avoid any runouts. The granite here is generally sound, but be cautious after wet weather—a slippery surface can increase risk. The adjacent tower is off-limits for tying off to protect fragile rock, so use the fixed anchor instead.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Arrive early in the day to enjoy cooler conditions and avoid afternoon heat.

Bring a rack with cams up to 2 inches—smaller gear won’t protect well here.

Stick to the main approach trail to minimize impact on local flora.

Check weather in advance; Squamish’s coastal rains can make granite slippery.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:The 5.6 rating on Earth Trip feels approachable and slightly soft, making it an ideal starting point for trad novices. Its consistent crack provides steady holds, though lead climbers should be prepared for the occasional tricky gear placement. Compared to nearby routes in the Smoke Bluffs, Earth Trip stands out for its accessible crack climbing and manageable exposure.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack including cams up to 2 inches required. The crack’s consistent width makes gear placements secure and intuitive. Anchor fixed at the top enables solid belay and rappel options. Avoid tying off to the adjacent tower, as this is discouraged.

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Tags

crack climb
beginner friendly
single pitch
trad gear
granite
shadowed route