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Earth, Moon, and Planets

Monterrey, Mexico
runout
sport climbing
dihedral
desert rock
single pitch
technical moves
5.9 R
Length: 110 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Earth, Moon, and Planets
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Earth, Moon, and Planets is a bold 110-foot sport climb on the left dihedral of the Sword pillar in El Potrero Chico. Known for its sparse bolts and runout nature, it demands unwavering focus and precise movement on classic northern Mexico limestone."

Earth, Moon, and Planets

Carving a path up the towering 'Sword' pillar in El Potrero Chico, Earth, Moon, and Planets offers an intense encounter that tests both mental grit and precise footwork. As you approach the left-hand dihedral spreading across the rock face, the climb immediately demands respect. This single-pitch sport route, set in the rugged expanse of Las Estrellas South, challenges with a rare combo: technical routesetting paired with a fiercely run-out nature that defines the classic Jeff Jackson style. The rock under your fingertips feels solid yet weathered, and every move needs calculated commitment.

At roughly 110 feet, this climb provides a concentrated burst of vertical exposure, with just six bolts to punctuate the line, leaving gaps that ask for boldness without sacrificing safety. The rating of 5.9 R signals a route that is approachable to strong sport climbers but warns of the serious consequences should a slip occur. Every handhold invites a negotiation, while the dihedral offers natural features you must use with finesse—body positions shift, edges challenge, and the crack system pulls you upward, sandpapered by the hot northern Mexico sun.

El Potrero Chico’s landscape frames the climb perfectly. Its desert air carries a dry heat that presses on your skin, while the distant peaks of Nuevo Leon stretch toward the sky. Early morning offers cooler temperatures and a sun cast lower, softening shadow lines across the rock face. By midday, the sun drapes the climb directly, heating the stone and demanding snug finger tape or chalk management to maintain grip.

This route embodies adventure with a practical edge. While it boasts sport protection, the runouts leave no room for hesitation. Climbers should be prepared mentally for the seriousness rooted in their distance from quick clips and confident in placing their trust in the bolts above and their own skill below. It’s a climb that encourages pacing—slow and deliberate moves where balance and footwork command the rhythm.

Planning your ascent here means preparing for a remote approach that immerses you in the vast northern Mexico desert setting. The trail to Las Estrellas Canyon is a steady path but demands good footwear and hydration, especially during warmer seasons. Carry extra water and start early to avoid the midday heat. Anchoring is straightforward, lowering off the Sword’s established fixed points, but do check your gear before the push.

Earth, Moon, and Planets doesn’t oversell itself with flourish. It’s direct, confrontational, and rewarding for those ready to meet its challenges. Whether you’re pushing your boundaries on runout 5.9 terrain or soaking up El Potrero Chico’s raw, sun-soaked geology, this route is a compact lesson in focus, risk, and reward.

Climber Safety

Sparse bolt coverage leaves significant runouts that punish hesitation; be mindful of the consequences and confident in clipping. Also, sun exposure can make holds slick due to heat—careful chalking and skin management are essential.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length110 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to avoid harsh midday sun heating the limestone.

Bring extra chalk and consider finger tape to protect skin on abrasive holds.

Hydrate thoroughly, as desert heat can be intense even in shoulder seasons.

Double-check anchor hardware before lowering off; fixed gear can see heavy use.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:Although rated 5.9, Earth, Moon, and Planets leans toward a stiff 5.9 due to the runout protection, demanding steady composure under pressure. The crux sits midway up the dihedral where precise foot placements and commitment to holds decide your success, making it feel more serious than the grade suggests.

Gear Requirements

Packed with six bolts spaced to test your mental control, this runout 5.9 R requires a solid sport rack, confident clipping, and precise footwork. The anchor is fixed on the Sword pillar—check your rappel setup before descending.

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Tags

runout
sport climbing
dihedral
desert rock
single pitch
technical moves
5.9 R