HomeClimbingEar No Evil

Ear No Evil

South Lake Tahoe, California USA
small gear start
two bolt anchors
granite friction
single pitch
Lake Tahoe climb
5.9 trad
Length: ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Ear No Evil
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ear No Evil is a compact trad climb near Lake Tahoe that demands precise gear placements and a steady approach. Its unique hollow "ear" feature challenges climbers to stay balanced and deliberate, making it a satisfying single-pitch adventure in classic Sierra granite."

Ear No Evil

Located along the rugged slopes overlooking Lake Tahoe, Ear No Evil presents an unassuming yet engaging trad climb that calls for steady confidence and precise footwork. The climb begins with a small gear placement, requiring climbers to exercise care in selecting their pro before moving upward. The route’s namesake, a prominent hollow "ear" shaped feature in the rock, demands a delicate touch—pulling outward risks an unexpected slip, so maintaining inward pressure is key. Anchored by just two bolts, this short single-pitch climb offers a taste of classic Sierra granite, where texture and subtle holds guide each hand and foothold.

The approach is straightforward from Old Camp Bluff, passing through Silver Lake before joining the Carson Pass Highway near the Lake Tahoe area. The granite here is firm but aged, with some pockets that test your gear placements and require thoughtful protection strategies. At 5.9, Ear No Evil balances technical moves with moderate exposure but rewards climbers who prepare adequately with a memorable experience on a quiet face. The route isn’t long, but it’s a satisfying introduction or warm-up within this storied climbing corridor.

The surrounding landscape is a mix of open forest and granite faces that seem to settle naturally into the mountainside. As you climb, the cool mountain air brushes past, resonating quietly against the rock’s textured surfaces. Early morning or late afternoon light brings out the granite’s subtle color shifts from pale gray to warm ochre, while distant pine scents mingle with the crisp alpine breeze.

For those planning to climb Ear No Evil, practical considerations include bringing a compact rack to complement the bolts and planning your timing to avoid midday heat when the sun intensifies on the rock. Footwear with sticky rubber will help you navigate the subtle smears and friction-dependent holds scattered along the route. Even though it’s short, pay attention to your initial placements to maintain confidence throughout. Given the minimal fixed protection, having reliable gear and the skill to place it snugly adds a layer of safety essential for this climb’s dynamic features.

Overall, Ear No Evil offers a precise and focused climbing adventure—a brief but rewarding escape that threads together the thrill of Sierra granite with practical challenge. Whether you’re fine-tuning your rack skills or looking for a sharp pitch to enjoy near Lake Tahoe, this route quietly delivers.

Climber Safety

Avoid pulling outward on the hollow ear, as its hollow nature could destabilize your hold. The route’s minimal protection requires solid gear placement skills, especially at the start. The granite is mostly sound but inspect placements carefully to prevent gear pullouts.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Place small gear carefully at the start to avoid pulling outward on the hollow ear.

Sticky rubber shoes improve friction on subtle granite features.

Early morning or late afternoon offers the best lighting and cooler rock temperatures.

Bring a compact rack focusing on small to medium cams alongside quickdraws for the bolts.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels accurate, offering a crisp technical sequence near the hollow ear that can bump the challenge if gear placement nerves add pressure. The route’s short length means sustained focus is important, though the grade won’t overwhelm seasoned 5.9 climbers familiar with Sierra granite. Compared to other nearby climbs, Ear No Evil offers a more subtle friction crux rather than overhanging power moves.

Gear Requirements

A small piece of gear is required at the start, followed by reliance on two bolts protecting the upper section. Be cautious placing protection around the hollow ear feature.

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Tags

small gear start
two bolt anchors
granite friction
single pitch
Lake Tahoe climb
5.9 trad