"A compelling five-pitch trad climb on Lover's Leap's granite cliffs, Eagle Buttress Right Side challenges climbers with technical mantles, a defining hand traverse, and steady crack systems leading to panoramic summit views."
Rising sharply along the sun-warmed granite of Lover’s Leap, the Eagle Buttress Right Side route stakes its claim as a compelling test for trad climbers seeking both technical challenge and scenic reward. Beginning at the Main Ledge, this climb leaps into focus with a pitch that demands precise mantling along narrow dikes. The rock here feels alive beneath your fingertips—solid, yet offering just enough texture to hold as you navigate a steep wall. The heart of this pitch is a dynamic hand traverse skirting to the right, threading the needle beneath a pronounced overhang. It’s a sequence that engages not just strength but calculated movement, offering a moment where the rock seems to challenge your intent, daring you to commit.
Upon surmounting the overhang, the belay station provides a breather with a view—a chance to drink in the expansive Highway 50 Corridor below, the scene stretching toward the vivid blue of Lake Tahoe. Continuing upward, climbers follow a well-defined crack system that opens into a wide gully, a natural chute that directs you toward the upper reaches. The final stretch links seamlessly into the Eagle Buttress Left Side route, extending the journey another 200 feet to the summit where panoramic vistas await.
At roughly 600 feet across five pitches, this climb balances approachability with technical substance. Gear up to three inches in size ensures placements that feel secure without sacrificing flow, though the occasional tricky placement rewards careful consideration. The granite’s inherent roughness provides reliable friction, encouraging confidence where feet find small edges and hands pocket into cracks.
Planning your ascent means factoring in the route’s exposure and sun exposure—morning climbs can offer cooler conditions, while afternoon sunlight sets the rock aglow, inviting but demanding hydration and sun protection. The approach is straightforward yet requires attentiveness to the steep terrain leading to the Main Ledge, a solid 30-40 minute hike from the parking at Highway 50.
For those ready to engage with Lover’s Leap’s timeless granite, Eagle Buttress Right Side is a rite of passage that mixes precise footwork, bold moves, and the steady reward of commanding views. It encourages climbers to read the rock and pick their sequence with care, all within a stretch of wilderness that honors the pursuit with striking natural beauty.
Expect exposure on the initial pitch’s mantles and hand traverse; secure placements and steady footwork are critical. The overhang requires confident climbing, and loose rock can occasionally occur near the upper crack systems—remain vigilant and test handholds and footholds carefully.
Start early to avoid intense afternoon sun on the Main Ledge pitch.
Bring ample water and sun protection; the rock reflects heat efficiently.
Carefully review gear placements before committing to mantles on exposed sections.
Park at Highway 50 corridor and allocate 30-40 minutes for approach hike to Main Ledge.
Standard trad rack with protection up to 3 inches is recommended to secure placements on dikes and within crack systems, ensuring a safe and efficient ascent.
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