"High above the unnamed lake below Warrior Peaks, Dyson boulder offers technical slab and roof bouldering in an unforgettable alpine setting. With three problems and unique movement on smooth granite, this boulder is ideal for climbers seeking high country adventure and skill-building in an unspoiled landscape."
At 10,501 feet in the wild expanse beneath the Warrior Peaks, Dyson boulder stands as a beacon for climbers seeking alpine adventure and a taste of technical finesse. With an outlook that lifts your gaze toward Jackass Pass and Mitchell Peak, Dyson rewards those willing to chase the scree above the marsh, where mountain runoff carves through ancient talus. Here on the rim above a still and unnamed lake, climbers will find a compact granite face that serves up practical challenges more reminiscent of high-consequence moments than indoor gym sessions.
Dyson’s climbing is distilled and pure—a short, east-facing slab with three distinct problems that will test your movement and creative problem-solving. The trio of lines aren’t simply variations, but distinct puzzles that force you to use body tension, clever toe and heel hooks, and an eye for subtle features. Whether you’re plotting the direct but strenuous exit of the “History Of Things To Come,” muscling through the awkward roof and incut pods, or traversing diagonally across the face to high ground far left via “2 Million Sunblock,” you’re trading in the comfort of thick mats for raw alpine skill. The footwork on “NO FATE” starts left of center—look for a low foothold with a nearby roof feature, perfect for a toe hook that helps you set up for a big, committing move. Even at such modest heights, every move counts, and the landings are rocky and uneven—make sure to bring a spotter and be prepared for careful, controlled falls. Climbers here have pioneered the area without pads, but the exposed placements and awkward topouts mean extra caution goes a long way.
The surface itself demands close attention. Smooth granite asks you to trust your friction and hold body tension through tenuous sequences, delivering excellent training for more consequential terrain. Each exit over the slab’s lip is a lesson in controlled movement, offering a refreshing departure from gym-style power—Dyson rewards patience, precise feet, and a willingness to commit.
Access to the boulder isn’t for the faint of heart, either. Starting below the Warrior Peaks in Wind River Range’s Cirque Valley, you’ll slog uphill across broken talus, cutting above marshy runoff toward Dyson’s perch. The approach, while not long, is marked by loose footing and shifting scree. The boulder faces east, taking on the morning light and drying quickly after the mountain nights; it can easily disappear if you’re not far enough out along the rim, so be vigilant and bring a GPS to match updated coordinates. Late summer to early fall provides the most reliable window for dry holds and reasonable temps—late snowfields and wet approaches can linger well into July at this elevation.
Dyson is a place to seek solitude and sharpen your technical edge. Don’t expect crowds or manicured trails: just high country silence, a brisk mountain wind swirling around you, and the quiet satisfaction of solving subtle movement on pristine stone. While it’s a compact circuit now—home to "2 Million Sunblock" (V3, 3 stars) and its companions—the potential for practice and the magnificent setting are what set it apart. More problems may emerge as climbers return and conditions are continually refined and mapped.
The stark alpine beauty and the opportunity to move quietly above the wild valley make Dyson a must-visit for the dedicated boulderer looking to escape the ordinary and experience climbing’s elemental core. Pack your pads, gather a solid crew, and get ready for an honest session of high-altitude problem-solving. The sense of quiet adventure and technical demand will linger far beyond the day.
Landings at Dyson are uneven and rocky. Though the boulders are short, controlled drops are essential. Always use a spotter and don't rely solely on pads. Weather can change quickly in the alpine—bring warm clothes and check forecasts before heading out.
Watch your step on the scree approach—loose rock makes footing tricky.
Start early for morning sun and cooler rock before afternoon clouds move in.
Stay aware of mountain weather—sudden storms and temperature drops are common above 10,000 feet.
Bring detailed GPS info; the east-facing boulder can be tough to spot above the marsh and talus.
Minimal gear—just bring a pad or two (if you want more protection than the FA's had), close-fitting approach shoes for the scree, and maybe a brush for cleaning. Conditions can be alpine: be ready for sudden weather changes and chilly mornings even in summer.
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