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Dykes on Bikes Trad Climb at Lower Dawn Wall

Moncton, Canada
crack climb
bolt-protected
single pitch
trad gear
step left traverse
granite
New Brunswick
Length: 55 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dykes on Bikes
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dykes on Bikes delivers a dynamic 55-foot trad challenge on the Lower Dawn Wall. Featuring a tight crack system and a strategic bolt clip, it’s a compact route that demands precise gear placement and technical footwork."

Dykes on Bikes Trad Climb at Lower Dawn Wall

At the heart of New Brunswick's rugged Welsford cliffs lies Dykes on Bikes, a focused and gratifying single-pitch trad climb that challenges your technical skills with a clean, engaging hand crack. This 55-foot route sits slightly to the right of the popular Lichen Cream Cheese, guiding climbers up a defined crack system that invites confident gear placements and precise movement. As you ascend, the rock’s texture grits beneath your fingertips, while the surrounding granite face stands silent but assertive, offering a clear window of vertical exposure framed by woodland shadows and distant ridges.

The route begins with a straightforward crack climb that soon demands careful footwork and steady rack management. A single bolt punctuates the line, providing a reassuring clip point before participants must step left to merge with the more established Lichen Cream Cheese. This transition feels organic—like joining a conversation mid-conversation—and pushes you into airy territory with ample opportunity to test your crack climbing prowess. The protection relies on traditional gear placements, where a standard rack will meet all needs, enhancing the sense of self-reliance.

Situated within the Lower Dawn Wall sector, this climb benefits from a well-defined approach and a moderate walk-in that balances isolation with accessibility. The granite here boasts excellent friction, encouraging deliberate but confident moves. The crux lies near the bolt clip, where subtle body positioning and precise hand jams are essential. Although naturally protected, the route tests the climber’s judgment in gear selection and placement, making it a wise choice for those eager to hone trad skills in a compact but rewarding setting.

Beyond the climb itself, the surrounding environment contributes to the experience—the air carries the crisp scent of pines, while the sunlight dapples through leaves, painting shifting patterns on the rock. Weather in this region can be variable; thus, timing your climb for early morning or late afternoon maximizes grip and comfort. Footwear with sticky soles is a must, and bringing extra slings to extend placements can ease rope drag during the step left transition.

For anyone planning an outing here, remember to pack water for hydration, as shade is patchy and occasional breeze can veil exertion. The descent is straightforward—an easy scramble back to the trailhead allows you to reflect on your climb without urgency. Dykes on Bikes may be brief, but its blend of technical demand and natural setting makes it a worthy addition for trad climbers scouting Welsford’s granite faces.

Climber Safety

While the bolt provides a solid clip point, the trad gear is key to safely negotiating the traverse left. Make sure to double-check placements, as rope drag can unsettle protection in this section. Watch for loose debris near the start and be mindful of the exposure when stepping left.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length55 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid heat on the exposed granite face.

Bring sticky-soled shoes for better friction on the crack.

Pack extra slings to extend protection around gear placements.

Stay hydrated—shade is limited along this route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10+
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.10+, Dykes on Bikes requires solid crack climbing technique and an eye for efficient gear placements. The grade sits comfortably for climbers with consistent 5.10 trad experience, with the crux near the bolt adding a bit of pump and technical edge. Compared to nearby routes like Lichen Cream Cheese, this climb feels slightly more polished around gear and movement, though not less demanding.

Gear Requirements

A standard rack is sufficient for protection, with placements available throughout the crack system. A single bolt is present; slings are recommended to manage rope drag during the leftward traverse.

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Tags

crack climb
bolt-protected
single pitch
trad gear
step left traverse
granite
New Brunswick