Dumais Direct carves a gritty, hands-on path up Boulder’s North Face of the First Flatiron, demanding focus and respect from trad climbers ready to push their limits. This route starts subtly left of the classic Direct Route, leading into a delicate crack system before converging on a shared first belay. From here, the climb intensifies, moving upward and then trending left to tackle a steep, narrow slot that forces climbers past overhangs with little gear protection in sight. The crux—an exposed 40-foot move off a stout pass-through—tests nerves and skill alike, with no placements available in the heart of the challenge. Above this technical section, options open toward the roof feature where climbers can either edge left or right, navigating the final pitches with the same steady focus that the route demands from the start.

Stretching nearly a thousand feet over six pitches, Dumais Direct rewards patience and precision. The older rock bears the marks of time, while the route’s rating of 5.8R highlights the added hazard from sparse protection, especially in sections where traditional gear is few and far between. Climbers will want to come prepared with a full rack emphasizing Metolius Blue through Big Purple cams, complemented by pink and red tricams for tricky placements. A set of aliens would be a wise addition for the pin scars encountered, though trusting these can feel like a leap of faith.

The approach is straightforward but requires good planning: Accessing the First Flatiron from Boulder, Colorado, the trail leads climbers through open terrain with shifting winds and wide views that spread west toward the Flatirons’ iconic silhouettes. Early morning treks set the best tone, with the wall’s northeast aspect offering shade from the afternoon sun but also lingering cool conditions well into spring and fall. This is a route better tackled during stable weather windows to minimize risk, especially given its runout nature and technical moves.

Dumais Direct can be partially linked on the lower pitches with a 70-meter rope to save time and reduce rope drag, a useful tweak for those moving efficiently. The descent is straightforward by walking off to the southeast, but climbers should stay alert for loose rock and avoid complacency on the exposed ledges below the summit.

Ultimately, this route presents itself as a solid test piece for traditional climbers eager to experience Boulder’s classic granite texture mixed with runout challenges and intricate finger cracks. It’s not the easiest climb in the Flatirons, but it delivers a layered experience of rock quality, route-finding, and heart-pounding moments set against Colorado’s striking mountain backdrop.