"Drytoolers Will be Prosecuted delivers a precise test of technical climbing skill on the Waterfall Wall’s vertical face. This 5.10c, single-pitch challenge melds blocky beginnings with a crux of tiny crimps, making it a must for climbers eager to sharpen finesse on well-bolted terrain."
Drytoolers Will be Prosecuted stands out as a focused challenge on the Waterfall Wall, offering climbers a compact but demanding encounter with precision and patience. The climb begins on solid, blocky rock that demands careful footwork and deliberate body positioning before leading left onto a striking vertical face. Here, the real test unfolds—tiny crimps guard the route's crux, requiring steady fingers and unwavering balance to push through. Beyond this technical section, the face opens up slightly to smoother, yet still engaging terrain, where controlled movement and mindful breathing carry you steadily to the top anchor. This 95-foot, single-pitch sport climb offers a sustained 5.10c experience that blends the intensity of technical climbing with a measured rhythm, perfect for climbers ready to sharpen their finesse and commitment.
Set within the wider Cochrane Lane cliffs in Welsford, New Brunswick, the Waterfall Wall provides a raw, unpretentious atmosphere with rocky features that reward touch-sensitive movement. The bolted protection assures confidence throughout the vertical push, while the bolted anchor on top ensures a safe and uncomplicated descent. The wall faces east, catching morning sun which heats the rock and primes it for early ascents, with afternoon climbs benefiting from a refreshing shade. Given the moderate length and focused difficulty, this route invites climbers seeking a concise, adrenaline-packed visit rather than a lengthy endurance test.
Accessing Drytoolers Will be Prosecuted involves a straightforward approach from the established trailhead near the base of the Waterfall Wall. The approach traverses moss-lined stone steps and patches of fir-scented forest that hum quietly with the presence of nature. Expect around 15 minutes of walking over well-maintained paths, making it accessible even on a packed weekend. The surrounding area retains a rugged feel, punctuated by the occasional cascade of the nearby waterfall, an ever-present reminder of the dynamic environment surrounding the climb.
For gear, rely on a standard sport rack with quickdraws to clip the bolts—no additional traditional protection is necessary. The fixed bolts are tested and in good condition, but the climbing demands precise hand placements and footwork more than brute strength or brute gear placements. Climbers should come prepared with tight-fitting shoes for micro-edge support and chalk to keep the hands dry at the crux. Planning your climb for cooler parts of the day enhances grip and muscle endurance, while hydration and moderate pacing help manage the sustained tension.
Drytoolers Will be Prosecuted offers a focused taste of the classic Waterfall Wall: technical climbing balanced with sensible protection and a natural setting where the rock both challenges and encourages through its clean lines. It’s a route that rewards those who patiently read the small holds and trust their movement, perfect for sport climbers looking to hone their skill and enjoy a compact adventure steeped in the wild character of New Brunswick’s cliffs.
While bolted protection is solid throughout, climbers should be cautious on the initial blocky section, where loose gravel can sneak onto footholds. The approach trail also demands attention due to uneven terrain, especially when wet.
Approach trail is short but rocky—wear sturdy shoes to avoid slips.
Early morning climbs benefit from warmed rock on the east-facing wall.
Chalk up generously to maintain grip on tiny crimps during the crux.
Hydrate well—the sustained effort can be deceptively taxing.
Fully bolted route with rappel anchor at the top. Recommended gear includes a standard set of quickdraws for clipping bolts. No traditional gear required.
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