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Drugged and Driving: A Bold Sport Route in Apple Valley Crags

Apple Valley, California United States
patina plates
lieback
arete
short sport
desert rock
crux after first bolt
Length: 30 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Drugged and Driving
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Drugged and Driving is a compact 30-foot sport climb in California’s Apple Valley Crags that tests precise edging and powerful liebacks. With a 5.10a rating, it offers a technical challenge wrapped in desert sun and sharp rock."

Drugged and Driving: A Bold Sport Route in Apple Valley Crags

In the sun-drenched expanse of California’s High Desert, the Apple Valley Crags offer a stark, rugged playground where each climb challenges both body and mind. Among these, the route known as Drugged and Driving stands out as a compact yet demanding line that puts your technique to the test over just 30 feet. The climb unfurls across juggy patina plates that welcome the hands with texture and flow, but quickly reveals its teeth at the crux just beyond the first bolt. Here, thin edges require precise foot placement and delicate balance, inviting climbers to focus and engage fully.

From this tension point, the route veers left around a sharp arete, asking for a committed, confident lieback move to reach a solid stance below the last bolt. This position offers vital rest before the final push: a series of reliable jugs that can be pulled over with controlled power and finesse, culminating in a mantle onto the anchor.

This brief but packed climb is bolted sport—four quickdraws are the minimum for safe ascent, with chain anchors providing secure top protection. Its 5.10a rating is a solid test of balance and finger strength, ideal for climbers ready to push into more technical sport climbing or sharpen their edge work. Twelve climbers have rated the route, awarding it a modest average score that reflects both the sharp challenges and the straightforward, no-frills nature of the climb.

The approach to Apple Valley Crags is as direct as the climb itself, though the High Desert’s dry air and open terrain call for thoughtful preparations. Early morning climbs beat the heat, while sturdy shoes with good toe sensitivity help negotiate the slabby footwork along the plates. Hydration is essential—there’s no natural water nearby—and sun protection can be a game-changer during summer ascents.

Drugged and Driving captures the spirit of desert climbing with its mix of technical edge holds and powerful lieback moves, making it a standout single-pitch route. Whether you’re on a mission to sharpen sport skills or simply crave a dose of California desert’s raw, sunlit verticality, this climb demands attention and rewards effort with clean moves and a quick descent.

Climber Safety

Bolts and anchors are fixed but can suffer desert wear—always double-check hardware before committing. The final mantle requires control; avoid rushing to reduce risk of slipping.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to avoid high desert heat and strong sun exposure.

Wear shoes with sensitive toes for precise footholds on patina plates.

Carry ample water; no natural sources exist near the crag.

Inspect bolts and anchors before climbing; desert conditions can accelerate wear.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating feels accurate with a sharp crux on thin edges that demands focused footwork and gripping strength. The route's lieback section adds a fresh challenge uncommon in short climbs, making this an excellent stepping stone for climbers looking to refine their technique on varied moves.

Gear Requirements

Bring at least four quickdraws to clip into the bolted protection. Anchor comprises chain links for secure rappel or lowering.

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Tags

patina plates
lieback
arete
short sport
desert rock
crux after first bolt