"Dream Easy carves a thoughtful, four-pitch line up Reed's Pinnacle in Yosemite, blending crack systems with technical face climbing. This moderate 5.8 route offers varied climbing challenges and a memorable granite headwall finale, ideal for those seeking reliable protection and engaging movement."
Dream Easy surfaces quietly in Yosemite's Lower Merced River Canyon, a climb that has lingered in the shadows at Reed's Pinnacle until recently revealing its measured challenge. Striking a balance between crack climbing and technical face sections, this route invites climbers to engage both mind and body over its 500-foot ascent. The granite greets you with a straightforward vertical rhythm, shifting between confident jams and the tentative security of knobs and edges. Pitch one demands thoughtful approach—starting with a knob section lacking pro, transitioning to a wide ledge, then venturing into a chimney where careful stemming and strategic backing out lead to a jug escape and mantle onto solid stances. This initial pitch sets a tone of varied movement and personal test. The second pitch flows with left-slanting ledges and an attentive traverse across a subtle dike capped by bolts, challenging you to maintain steady focus on thinner face moves that lead to a rounded horn belay. Pitch three reengages classic hand cracks, interspersed with skillful knobs and cautious gear placements, allowing the climber’s technique to sharpen over quality jams. The route culminates in the fourth pitch— the signature stretch—where a sparse crack system and hummocks tease the line’s final push. The traverse onto a steep, clean face brings a defining sequence: a thin move left followed by a powerful lieback past a bulge that demands both strength and precision before arriving at the bolted anchor. Dream Easy asks for a solid rack—a single set to 4 inches plus supplementary smaller pieces and dependable slings—paired with two 60-meter ropes to negotiate the rappels safely. Descent requires dexterity and planning: a double rope rappel from pitch four to three, a second rappel down a steep section to a chimney top, then a final rappel off bolts to the ground, with care taken to avoid rope damage near the chimney's lip. This route offers Yosemite climbers a moderate yet fulfilling climb that mixes traditional crack climbing with technical face moves, perfect for those seeking an accessible adventure that tests footwork and route-finding while rewarding with granite’s timeless grip and the canyon’s quiet elevation gain.
Watch rope drag closely, especially on descent where the chimney near the rappel can damage ropes. Stay clear of pulling ropes too close to the steep, abrasive rock edges. The chimney on pitch one requires careful maneuvering to avoid getting stuck inside.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the south-facing face.
Carry slings for tricky placements and sling around horns or chock stones.
Be cautious on pitch one’s chimney — back out carefully to find the exit jug.
Rappels require two ropes and care around rope-eating sections near the chimney.
Essential gear includes a single rack up to 4 inches, with added smaller cams (2.5-3 inches) and ample slings. Two 60-meter ropes are recommended to comfortably manage rappels.
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