Drano: A Classic Splitter Crack in Joshua Tree's Comic Book Area

Twentynine Palms, California United States
splitter crack
finger crack
hand jam
desert climbing
Joshua Tree
single pitch
trad gear
granite
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Drano
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Drano delivers a classic single-pitch trad climb with a perfect splitter finger and hand crack in Joshua Tree’s Comic Book Area. This line rewards steady technique and features solid placements on warm desert granite."

Drano: A Classic Splitter Crack in Joshua Tree's Comic Book Area

Drano offers an invigorating, single-pitch trad experience that stands out in Joshua Tree’s Comic Book Area. This 70-foot climb presents a clean, finger-to-hand-sized crack that challenges climbers with precise jamming and delicate technique. The crack pulls you upward with confident stretches, where the rock’s sunbaked texture provides reliable friction beneath your hands and feet. As you ascend, the desert air carries hints of creosote and sagebrush, while the warmth of the mid-morning sun casts long shadows across the granite face.

This route’s defining feature is its splitter crack, a rare find that feels both straightforward and exacting. Unlike more congested climbs, Drano’s line is clear and open, demanding focused footwork on small edges and powerful hand jams. The route’s moderate length rewards steady pacing, making it accessible for intermediate climbers ready to push their crack climbing skills.

Approach is manageable but demands attention: a short trek through sandy patches and low scrub leads to the base, where Joshua Tree’s stark desert landscape opens up under a vast sky. Given the region’s dry climate, hydration is essential; bring plenty of water to stay sharp. Early morning or late afternoon climbs are best to avoid the sun at its hottest and to enjoy cooler air and softer light that enhances the granite’s warm hues.

Protection is straightforward—finger to hand-sized cams cover the crack’s width with confident placements. The rock’s solidity ensures gear placements hold firm, but expect some trickier spots that reward patience and precise placement. While the climb doesn’t demand lengthy trad racks, bringing a full set up to hand-size ensures coverage for potential variations and backup.

Local wisdom suggests timing climbs for spring or fall when daytime temperatures hover pleasantly and crowds lessen. Footwear with sticky rubber enhances edging and smearing on subtle granite features alongside the crack. Finally, be prepared for the descent: a short walk-off returns you to the trailhead, but watch for loose stones and uneven terrain that could catch tired climbers off guard.

Drano is the kind of climb that invites quiet focus and rewards a tactile connection between climber and rock. It beckons those looking for a pure crack climb that balances challenge with the straightforward adventure of Joshua Tree’s open desert environment.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing on the approach—sand can loosen and granite slabs around the base may be slick in the early morning dew. On the climb, be cautious with gear placements in narrower sections where cams must fit precisely to ensure reliable protection.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early or late in the day to avoid intense desert heat

Bring 3-4 liters of water to stay hydrated in dry conditions

Use sticky rubber shoes for confident edging on granite

Check weather forecasts—spring and fall offer the best temperatures and less crowding

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:At 5.10a, Drano feels fairly true to grade, requiring solid crack technique and endurance throughout the pitch. The crack’s width varies, creating moments that test finger strength and hand jams fairly evenly. Unlike some softer Joshua Tree 5.10s, this route presents a sustained challenge without a defined crux, demanding consistency and careful gear placements to send cleanly.

Gear Requirements

Finger to hand-sized cams will protect Drano’s splitter crack effectively. Placements are generally solid though a few sections require precise gear positioning to maintain security.

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Tags

splitter crack
finger crack
hand jam
desert climbing
Joshua Tree
single pitch
trad gear
granite