"Dragonlance delivers a gritty 40-foot sport climb set on the textured granite of Big Bear’s northern walls. Featuring a wide crack start and a challenging crux near the second bolt, this route demands focus and steady nerves amidst sparse protection."
Dragonlance stakes its claim as one of the earliest bolted routes on the Dragonlance Wall in the San Bernardino Mountains, offering climbers a taste of Big Bear's rugged character through 40 feet of sport climbing. The climb launches from a wide crack rated 5.8, a deceptively straightforward start that quickly escalates into a series of technical, face moves carrying a crux near the second bolt. This section demands precise footwork and mental steadiness because a slip here could result in a hard fall — an ever-present reminder that the route’s protection is minimal.
The cliff face above unfolds with visible features, giving a rewarding sense of flow after the challenging crux. The angle eases as you approach a broad ledge equipped with a two-bolt anchor to top out safely. While Dragonlance’s bolts are spaced with a healthy dose of caution, the route tests one’s boldness more than pure technical difficulty, making it an honest introduction to 5.10a climbing. However, those new to leading at this grade should carefully consider the risk of ground falls due to bolt placement.
Located in the heart of Big Bear Lake’s northern sector, the climb is framed by the iconic San Bernardino Mountains. The local granite, though not pristine, carries a character that feels carved by the elements — weathered but sturdy, with sections of crisp edges and slabby faces. Outside of climbing, the approach wind whispers through pines and rocky outcrops, setting a quiet backdrop to preparation and focus.
For adventurers venturing here, the Dragonlance route offers more than just vertical movement – it challenges judgment and nerve in a wild setting just a short drive from Big Bear’s recreational hub. Climbers should prepare with solid footwear, double-check anchor setups, and maintain clear communication with a vigilant belayer. The climb's exposure and protection style reward respect and strategic pacing over speed.
It’s an excellent choice for sport climbers seeking a compact, demanding pitch with character and consequence. Though it may not be the most polished or forgiving, Dragonlance stands as an unapologetic first step into the local climbing fabric of Big Bear, where boldness meets the granite face under open skies.
Falls near the second bolt risk hitting the ground due to the bolt spacing and lack of intermediate protection. Use attentive belaying and consider clipping quickdraws well before attempting crux moves to reduce fall force.
Approach early in the day to avoid strong afternoon sun on the wall.
Use climbing shoes with good edging capability for the crack start and face moves.
Carry a soft helmet and double-check your gear clips due to the potential fall hazard.
Ensure your belayer stays attentive throughout the crux zone to manage fall risks.
The route is protected by three bolts and finishes at a two-bolt anchor equipped with hangers. Be aware that the bolt spacing around the crux can lead to dangerous falls if protection fails or slips occur.
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