"Dragon Direct offers steep, focused traditional climbing on Boulder Canyon’s Third Tier. With two bolts to launch and gear placements up to 2 inches protecting the single 70-foot pitch, this route melds accessible adventure with genuine exposure and Boulder’s signature granite texture."
Dragon Direct sits prominently in the West Gully of Boulder Canyon’s Third Tier, offering an unpretentious yet rewarding traditional climb that challenges both nerves and technique on its single 70-foot pitch. From the moment you approach, the rock asserts itself with gritty texture under your fingers as the route ascends steeply past two well-placed bolts that mark your entry into the climb. Moving beyond these bolts, gear placements become your partners—ranging from tight fingers to generous 2-inch cams—that guard your steady push toward the summit’s 2-bolt ring anchor.
The climb rewards steady focus more than flash, with a distinctive sense of exposure as the Wall of the Dragon opens into view. For those who dare, extending beyond the anchor along the ramp offers a scenic perch above the canyon, a rare chance to soak in Boulder’s rugged granite without haste. However, a word to the wise—bring your own gear for descent as any fixed slings at the top are often absent. The approach is straightforward if cautious; the area, while popular, doesn’t spare you from the more uninviting realities of urban adjacency—vehicles may not be quite as secure as the rock beneath your hands.
For the climber seeking an accessible yet pure trad experience with a brisk introduction to Boulder’s granite character, Dragon Direct provides a crisp dose of vertical adventure. Plan your day with solid shoes, a standard rack up to 2 inches, and gloves for the occasional sharp edge. A timing window in spring and fall avoids excess heat and ensures dry rock. Hydrate adequately before heading up the trail, which winds through pine-scented air and shards of sunlight filtering through the trees—nature’s way of mentally prepping you for the climb.
When you reach the base, take a moment to tune in to the canyon’s pulse—the river gurgling below dares you forward, and the wall itself seems to watch your effort with quiet intensity. It’s a climb that balances grit, straightforward protection, and the solemn beauty of the Colorado outdoors, wrapped in one 70-foot pitch that continues to draw local climbers who appreciate its honest challenge and prime location near Boulder town amenities.
Be cautious when rappelling or descending from the top; fixed slings may be missing. Always carry extra slings and locking carabiners for your own rap anchors. The approach and parking area require vigilance due to past vehicle break-ins.
Park securely as the area has a history of vehicle theft—avoid leaving valuables in your car.
Best climbed in spring or fall to avoid extreme heat and ensure dry granite.
Wear solid climbing shoes with good edging ability for the steep moves past bolts.
Carry a standard trad rack, focusing on cams up to 2 inches and plenty of slings for placements.
Bring a standard traditional rack with cams ranging from small to 2 inches. Two bolts initiate the climb before gear placements take over. The anchor features two bolted rings for lowering or continuing to the adjacent ramp. Note that fixed slings for rappelling may be unreliable.
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