"Down On The Corner offers a dynamic 70-foot single pitch at Main Elk Crag, featuring a technical right-facing corner that elevates from 5.9 to 5.11a/b. With solid bolt protection and a manageable approach, it’s an ideal progression climb for aspiring sport climbers in Colorado’s high country."
Situated on the rugged cliffs of Main Elk Crag, just above the thunderous roar of Main Elk Creek near Glenwood Springs, Colorado, Down On The Corner invites climbers into a compact but rewarding test of skill and stamina. This single-pitch sport climb runs for about 70 feet, carving its way through a distinctive right-facing corner that challenges climbers with varied technical sequences and steady protection. As you approach the base, the surrounding landscape offers a crisp, pine-scented atmosphere with the fullness of the creek’s voice threading steadily through the air, a natural soundtrack urging you forward.
The climb begins with a well-bolted 5.9 section that leads to the first anchor. This initial segment encourages confident footwork and precise hand placement on the textured rock, presenting a rhythmic flow ideal for warming up while still demanding attention to detail. Beyond this, the route ramps up to a 5.11a/b challenge, protected by three additional bolts that guard a steeper, more physical stretch. Here, the right-facing corner widens slightly, requiring a blend of finger locks, layback moves, and powerful heel-toe cams against the rock’s fissures, testing your ability to maintain composure as the difficulty sharpens.
Boasting ten bolts in total—seven to the first anchor and three to the upper—Down On The Corner offers a reassuring safety margin, making it approachable for those transitioning into harder sport climbing grades. The rock is generally solid with excellent friction, but occasional flakes may catch your attention, reminding you to remain vigilant. Though fairly short in length, the route’s split in difficulty between the two anchor points creates a natural progression; climbers can pause and reassess mid-climb or retreat safely from the first anchor if conditions or confidence waver.
Access to Main Elk Crag is straightforward, taking you on a modest hike through forested trails that neither exhaust nor overwhelm. The approach—from trailhead to base—generally requires 20 to 30 minutes over firm ground and moderate elevation changes. Clear GPS coordinates make finding the climb hassle-free.
Best climbed in spring through fall, the rock face faces generally east, capturing morning sun to awaken both rock and muscles but offering afternoon shade that tempers overheating on warmer days. Bring sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber and double-check your quickdraws for durability before you head out. Hydration is key—carry water for the approach and while belaying, as the natural water sources near the creek may be fast-flowing and unsafe to drink without treatment.
Local advice emphasizes patience with the crux section near the upper bolts—spotting rests carefully can help conserve energy before pushing through the tougher moves. For those aiming to extend the day, the surrounding area hosts additional sport routes and trad climbs, making it an excellent base for a varied climbing outing.
When your send is complete, descent is simple: a single 70-foot rappel back to the ground, anchored at the upper belay stations. Care in rope management during the rappel is important to avoid snagging on the occasional bush encroaching near the cliff edge. Down On The Corner delivers a compact but complete climbing experience that balances technical climbing with solid protection and approachable access, suitable for climbers seeking to push into the low 5.11 range with confidence.
While the bolts provide reliable protection, some flakes and loose debris are present near the upper section. Take care to test handholds and clean loose rock before relying on them. The rappel descent can snag on vegetation near the cliff edge; manage rope carefully and watch footing on the narrow ledge.
Start early to benefit from morning sun on the east-facing wall.
Bring extra quickdraws to comfortably clip all bolts without extending.
Check shoes for grip; precise footwork is essential in crack and corner sections.
Hydrate thoroughly before the climb; the creek water is unsafe to drink.
The climb is fully bolted with 7 bolts leading to the first anchor and an additional 3 bolts securing the upper section. Quickdraws, a single 70 meter rope, and standard sport climbing gear are recommended.
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