"Douchbags or Underdogs is a focused, technical 5.12a sport climb above Mamquam FSR, demanding sharp finger strength and precise footwork. This single pitch challenges you with steep, tightening holds and a dynamic roof finish just off a high ledge."
Douchbags or Underdogs stands out on the Mamquam FSR cliffs as a short but intense burst of sport climbing, demanding focus and precise technique from the first move. The route begins on a ledge reached by a well-worn trail that curves around a towering fir, offering sharp glances into the deep green forest below. Avoid scrambling up from the base; the upper ledge remains rough and unstable, untouched by cleaning efforts. Instead, prepare for a serious stick clip at the first bolt – a cautionary step for this bold line.
Your hands lock into sharp edges as the climb arcs upward through a corner, where holds start generous but quickly shrink in size. The rock pitch steepens here, challenging grip strength and body positioning before you face a final, committing roof. Pulling through this crux demands calculated effort and core tension, rewarding persistence with a hard-earned top-out.
The Squamish granite here is characteristic – solid yet subtly variable, with natural texture that tests finger strength but promises a reliable grip when climbed with care. This single-pitch sport route, graded 5.12a, is a brilliant test piece for climbers seeking to sharpen their technique in a location known for its rich climbing culture.
Approaching Douchbags or Underdogs is straightforward with access along Mamquam Forest Service Road. The trail to the base is firm and well trodden, threading through mature firs and mixed evergreens that frame the cliff’s raw vertical face. Squamish’s temperate climate means spring through fall offers the best climbing window, with mornings favored to avoid the afternoon sun heating the rock.
Protection consists exclusively of bolts, making quickdraws essential. The first bolt requires a stick clip given the risky position just off the ledge, so a lightweight stick clip device or careful partner assistance will increase safety. Because the route is short, pack minimal gear to stay nimble for precision moves.
Spectacular views over the Squamish River Valley often pull the eye during rests, where the quiet rustle of the forest tempts a pause to drink in the outdoors. Though short, the ascent commands total attention—and reminds climbers that boldness in climbing comes hand-in-hand with respect for the rock’s demands.
Whether you’re dialed into your training or stepping up from nearby sport routes, Douchbags or Underdogs offers a raw and rewarding experience that hones finger strength, footwork, and mental focus. Be ready for a challenge that’s as pragmatic in its protections as it is thrilling in its climb.
Avoid attempting the stick clip freehand due to loose rocks around the ledge; the first bolt sits in a precarious spot. The ledge above the trail is unstable and uncleaned, so approach and climbing starts should be handled with care to prevent dislodging loose debris.
Stick clip the first bolt to avoid risky early moves off the ledge.
Approach trail is stable and clear, but avoid scrambling up unstable rock slabs.
Mornings offer cooler rock temperatures for better grip during spring to fall.
Minimal gear needed; focus on light quickdraws and precise climbing shoes.
Route protected entirely by bolts with a recommended stick clip for the first bolt due to its position off a loose ledge. Quickdraws only; traditional gear not applicable.
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