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Double Trouble at Mota Wall: A Bold Two-Pitch Sport Climb in El Potrero Chico

Monterrey, Nuevo Leon Mexico
sport climb
two pitch
tufa climbing
El Potrero Chico
technical moves
dry desert
bolted anchors
Length: 115 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Double Trouble
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Double Trouble delivers a concentrated burst of technical climbing on El Potrero Chico’s Mota Wall. This two-pitch sport route blends precise movement through tufalike formations with solid bolted protection, challenging climbers at 5.10c/d to find their rhythm in a setting alive with desert light and limestone grit."

Double Trouble at Mota Wall: A Bold Two-Pitch Sport Climb in El Potrero Chico

Double Trouble stands out at El Potrero Chico as a sharp, engaging two-pitch sport climb that demands focus and finesse. Beginning at the clearly marked nameplate, the first pitch challenges you immediately with a tough move past the opening bolt, setting the tone for 5.10a climbing that rewards persistence. The rock texture shifts as you ascend, offering a mix of holds that push you to balance power with precision before reaching the bolts and solid chains of the first anchor.

The second pitch steps into a slightly more committing rhythm as it follows a tufalike formation sculpted by water and time. Moving up through these distinctive features tests your technique and strength with sustained 5.10c/d climbing. Each reach and foot placement counts here, with the tufas offering both a physical and mental puzzle to solve before you clip into the second anchor. The entire route measures 115 feet, providing an intense, focused experience without overstaying its welcome.

The Mota Wall’s towering face catches light differently throughout the day, often warming in the morning and shading in the afternoon, creating a dynamic environment as you climb. Bolts are well-placed offering reliable protection, but the route demands confident clipping and smooth rope management, especially on the second pitch where the tufas can tempt hesitation.

Access to this climb is straightforward, with El Potrero Chico's well-trodden approach trails leading you from the base camp into the heart of Northern Mexico’s climbing playground. The trail is a steady incline across rocky terrain, taking about 15 to 20 minutes, and offers broad views of the surrounding canyons and desert landscape.

Preparation is key: sturdy climbing shoes with a solid edge are essential for delicate smearing on the tufas, and a well-practiced clip-and-move rhythm will get you through without wasted energy. Hydration cannot be overstressed in daytime climbs here—temperatures soar rapidly, especially in the dry months. Early starts are recommended to avoid the heat and enjoy the wall in its prime light. Double Trouble's straightforward rappel from the top with a single 70-meter rope makes descent simple but be alert for loose rock near the anchors and slope edges.

El Potrero Chico itself is more than a climbing destination; it’s a rugged stage where limestone walls challenge climbers of all levels, punctuated by dramatic desert panoramas and the ever-present buzz of adventure. Double Trouble offers both a tangible sense of achievement and a taste of this vibrant climbing culture—ready to test and reward those who commit to its length and technical demands.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the anchors and on the descent path; secure footing is essential on the tufas, especially when clipping bolts. Rappelling requires a full 70m rope—double-check your setup before lowering off to avoid any surprises. Desert heat also calls for sun protection and hydration.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches2
Length115 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the morning to avoid the intense afternoon heat on Mota Wall.

Wear climbing shoes with a sensitive edge for precise footwork on tufas.

Carry ample water as the approach and climb expose you to dry desert conditions.

Use a single 70m rope for an efficient and safe descent via rappel.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c/d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c/d rating on Double Trouble feels true to its technical demands. The first pitch offers a solid warm-up with a 5.10a crux at the start, while the second pitch steps up the difficulty with sustained tufalike moves that require both strength and precision. Climbers familiar with other mid-grade El Potrero Chico routes will find this climb consistent in its challenge, with no deceptively soft sections but a crux that demands attention to body position and gear clipping.

Gear Requirements

This route is fully bolted with sturdy chains at each anchor, making it ideal for a standard sport rack. A single 70-meter rope is sufficient to rappel from the top. Bring regular quickdraws and ensure your clipping technique is solid to handle the sustained moves on the tufas.

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Tags

sport climb
two pitch
tufa climbing
El Potrero Chico
technical moves
dry desert
bolted anchors