HomeClimbingDouble Ospreys Left

Double Ospreys Left: A Classic Southern Sierra Trad Climb

Fresno, California United States
traditional
granite
multi-pitch
long climb
bulge crux
Southern Sierra
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
150
Location
Double Ospreys Left
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Double Ospreys Left is a demanding 150-pitch trad route that snakes up the granite of Southern Sierra’s Wimovi Pluton. Featuring a technical corner start and a challenging bulge crux, this climb demands solid gear skills and endurance amid spectacular wilderness."

Double Ospreys Left: A Classic Southern Sierra Trad Climb

Double Ospreys Left stands as a formidable yet approachable route tucked along the rugged cliffs of Wimovi Pluton in California’s Southern Sierra. This sprawling trad climb unfolds across 150 pitches, making it a serious commitment for climbers prepared for sustained exposure and intricate route-finding. The journey begins at the base of a striking corner on the right side of an ascending ramp, where the rock’s texture invites a steady rhythm of hand jams and delicate foot placements. As you ascend, the corner widens, offering breathing room and a subtle shift in tactics before you reach a prominent ledge that provides a chance to rest and collect your focus for the continuing challenge.

Soon after, the route merges seamlessly with its neighboring line at a bulge midway up the wall — a key feature that requires both strength and finesse to overcome. Navigating this crux demands precise gear placements and confident movement, as protection is entirely traditional, with no fixed bolts marking the start or the way. The granite’s sharp edges hold reliable cracks perfect for cams and nuts, but climbers need to be vigilant about securing placements and maintaining balance on tricky footholds.

Surrounding the climb, the Southern Sierra invites adventurers with open skies and the occasional call of birds riding the thermal currents. The granite walls stand firm against the shifting light of day, casting long shadows that track your progress. The air carries a dry, pine-scented breeze, and the approach carves through scrub and scattered pines, setting a tone of quiet focus before the technical exertion begins.

This route calls for preparation beyond physical readiness. With no fixed gear at the start, climbers should pack a full rack suitable for the varied crack sizes found throughout the climb and be prepared for a remote descent. The area sees minimal traffic, preserving a raw, primal feel for those who venture here, but also requiring solid navigation skills and careful planning for supplies and water.

For those weighing this climb, Double Ospreys Left offers a deeply rewarding experience. It balances the thrill of traditional climbing with the sweeping solitude of the Southern Sierra, carving out a path that demands respect and rewards patience. Whether you’re stepping up from shorter routes or seeking to test your endurance on multi-pitch adventures, this line delivers the quality and challenge that define the storied granite walls of the region.

Climber Safety

Because the route has no fixed protection at the start and features a tricky bulge, climbers must be vigilant about gear placement and avoid complacency. Loose rock shards near the bulge require extra care, as do the remote descent conditions—plan your retreat carefully.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches150
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and to pace through the long climb.

Bring ample water and plan for no easy resupply on approach or descent.

Wear sturdy shoes with sticky rubber for precise footwork on granite edges.

Brush off loose rock carefully near the bulge to ensure safe holds.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating on Double Ospreys Left leans toward a moderate but sustained effort due to the length and technical bulge halfway up. While the climbing moves themselves are not extreme, the sheer exposure, route-finding complexity, and gear reliance add a layer of seriousness that nudges the overall challenge slightly above a typical 5.8. Comparatively, this climb feels stiffer than shorter southern Sierra routes due to its endurance demands.

Gear Requirements

Traditional gear is essential for Double Ospreys Left, as the route begins with no fixed bolts. A full rack covering a range of cams and nuts will allow secure protection through the corner and bulge sections.

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Tags

traditional
granite
multi-pitch
long climb
bulge crux
Southern Sierra