"Double Menton is a sharp, single-pitch sport climb in Kamouraska known for its focused crux and precise moves. Rated 5.11d, it delivers a quick but intense challenge framed by quiet northern forests and bright afternoon sun."
Double Menton stands as a focused challenge in the quiet climbing enclave of Kamouraska, Quebec, a crag that openly leans into its reputation for powerful, single-move tests. This route packs a concentrated punch, offering a tightly scripted ascent that demands precision and grit right from the first clip. Though once rated 5.12a, consensus has shifted towards a slightly friendlier 5.11d—still formidable for most climbers, and a testament to the holds’ subtle difficulties rather than a continuous grind. The rock is solid and clean, framed by the cool Canadian air that sweeps in off the nearby St. Lawrence River. The sun plays a significant role here, warming the wall in the afternoon and creating ideal conditions during spring and early fall when heat and humidity are low.
The climb itself rises approximately 25 feet above the base, stitched together by four well-placed bolts and a reliable anchor, providing reassuring protection without cluttering the movement. Expect a brief but intense sequence that tests finger strength on small edges and precise foot placements on sharply angled stands. The crag’s character encourages a brief mental reset before pushing the single crux move that defines the route’s difficulty—one well-executed moment where control and power must combine seamlessly.
Arrival calls for a short approach through the L'Amphitheatre sector, part of the Bas-Saint-Laurent area, where faint forest scents mingle with the cool humidity. The access trail is straightforward, a 10-minute walk over gentle territory that lets you conserve energy for the climb itself. GPS coordinates and the surrounding natural cues make the approach easy to navigate, even for first-time visitors.
With its compact length and sharp focus, Double Menton is a perfect pit stop for climbers looking to push their limits on sport routes without committing to a multi-pitch grind. Bring shoes with sticky rubber optimized for small edging, and stay hydrated—the wall’s exposure to afternoon sun can surprise you with its warmth. Best to arrive early or late to avoid crowds, and consider layering, as the temperatures swing swiftly between shade and sun.
Finally, descending is simple: a straight rappel from the fixed anchor brings you back to solid ground quickly, allowing you to regroup or move on to the next climb. The clean rock and efficient bolts mean you can focus on the climb itself without distraction. This route may not be the longest or the steepest, but it stands out for its pure, concentrated challenge that has made it a favored test piece in the region.
The climb’s protection is limited to four bolts and an anchor; fall potential is low if clipped properly, but make sure to avoid swinging far out on the crux move. The rock is solid, but the approach trail can be slippery when wet.
Arrive early or late to beat the afternoon sun warming the wall.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for small edging and precise footwork.
Stay hydrated—while short, the route’s exposure can get warm in spring and fall.
Bring a standard 60m rope for the single rappel descent.
The route is protected by four bolts plus a secure anchor, providing solid and straightforward protection suitable for climbers comfortable with sport routes of this grade.
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