"Double Cracks offers a tight 50-foot trad climb just off a popular practice route, blending technical crack moves with manageable protection. Balanced for both eager beginners and skilled climbers refining trad moves, this Bay Area classic delivers solid climbing with a straightforward walk-off descent."
Double Cracks presents a compact but rewarding single pitch climb tucked into the accessible Summit Rock area near the San Francisco Bay. The route begins just right of University of Santa Clara Practice Climb #1 and challenges climbers with an initial section that’s less about two distinct cracks and more about navigating a combination of a wide flake crack and two thinner seams. The opening moves require careful footwork along these seams beneath the first bolt, creating a technical start that demands precision rather than brute force.
As you push past this bolt, the route opens into a wider crack offering hands and feet ample contact to power through into an airy ledge. Once settled here, you follow the well-defined double crack system for roughly 15 feet longer, topping out at a set of two bolts. The position offers solid protection throughout with placements up to 3.5 inches, though most standard cams no larger than two inches will cover the majority of the gear required. A lone bolt placed about 15 feet above the ground provides insurance early on, making the route approachable for climbers refining trad techniques without fully committing to runouts.
The pitch's length at 50 feet fits neatly within a comfortable single-pitch framework, perfect for a quick crag session or as training for longer routes in the area. While anchors are bolted, the absence of rappel gear demands rappelling climbers to plan for a walk-off descent, heading left after cleaning. This adds a mindful finish to the climb, encouraging awareness of footing and route-finding on the descent through the Castle Rock wilderness.
Summit Rock itself sits amid the greater Castle Rock Area, a stretch favored by climbers for its accessible rock quality and variety of routes. The air is often filled with the hum of regional wildlife and the aroma of coastal pine and fir, blending to create an environment that's both invigorating and serene. The moderate grading of 5.9 invites both seasoned climbers tuning skills and less-experienced adventurers ready to push beyond their comfort zone without undue exposure.
For those planning their visit, timing the climb during early morning or late afternoon provides the best light and cooler temperatures, as the wall’s orientation exposes it fully to mid-day sun. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential here due to the mix of slabby seam climbs and crack jamming. Adequate hydration for the approach, typically under 30 minutes, and small rack preparation focused on cams in the 0.5 to 3.5 inch range will have you ready for the nuances of this classic.
Double Cracks demands respectful attention to detail from climbers: it’s a route where small holds and subtle edges test technique alongside physical endurance. The steady progression through featured cracks culminates in a satisfying feeling of flow and accomplishment. Whether honing crack climbing skills or seeking a solid trad outing close to the Bay, this climb stands out for its balance between straightforward logistics and tangible mountain challenge.
While protection is generally straightforward, climbers should be cautious on the walk-off descent, which veers left after the climb with uneven terrain and loose rock patches. Also, the absence of rappel anchors means downclimbing or walking off is mandatory, so plan accordingly for route cleanup and gear retrieval.
Start from the University of Santa Clara Practice Climb #1—Double Cracks is just right of it.
Wear sticky rubber shoes to handle the seam climbs and wider crack jams.
Avoid climbing mid-day sun as the route faces direct sunlight, making rock hot and slick.
Plan your descent by walking off left after cleaning, since no rappel stations exist.
Bring a trad rack with cams ranging up to 3.5 inches—mostly between 0.5 and 2 inches—to cover the varying crack widths. The route includes one bolt about 15 feet off the ground, offering early protection, and two bolts at the top to set up a top rope. Note that no rappel anchors are available, so prepare for a walk-off down the left side after cleaning.
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