"Double Cherry Pie offers a compelling two-pitch sport climb on Mota Wall, blending technical limestone corners with a striking roof crux. This route caters to climbers seeking solid protection amid spectacular North Mexican mountain scenery."
Double Cherry Pie stands as an inviting two-pitch sport climb on the rugged Mota Wall, perched within the striking landscape of El Potrero Chico. This route threads upward through clean, steep limestone, offering a taste of the technical challenges that define the area. The first pitch challenges climbers with a sustained 5.10a corner that demands attentive footwork and steady movement as it angles right onto an open face. After reaching the anchor, the second pitch intensifies, pushing to 5.10d with dynamic sequences along the corner before negotiating a distinctive small roof feature that tests both power and precision. The limestone here is well-formed and offers solid edges and pockets, making each move feel purposeful and engaging.
Surrounding the route, the environment echoes with the dry North Mexican air and the subtle rustling of desert winds threading through sparse trees and scrub. Mota Wall itself rises sharply, exposing climbers to sweeping views of the El Potrero Chico valley below and the dramatic mountain ranges beyond. Despite the sun’s intensity during midday, the route’s orientation provides periods of welcome shade in the morning and late afternoon, ideal for climbing when temperatures dip.
Approach to Double Cherry Pie is straightforward: a clear trail leads from the established base camp and parking area, winding through rocky paths with light vegetation. It typically takes about 20 minutes on foot to reach the base, with GPS coordinates at 25.94747 latitude and -100.4761 longitude guiding the way. Climbers report well-packed dirt paths with intermittent loose stones, so sturdy footwear and caution are advised.
Protection is reliable and sport-style, relying on 18 bolts plus secure anchors positioned for safe belaying. The bolt spacing supports confident clipping, though the route’s cruxes require focused effort—especially on the second pitch roof section, where body tension and precise foot placement become crucial. The rock quality in this area is dependable, allowing trust in the fixed hardware without concern for brittle holds.
Given the route’s moderate length of 175 feet split into two pitches, it fits nicely into a half-day climbing plan, leaving plenty of time to explore neighboring climbs that share Mota Wall’s vertical appeal. Climbers new to El Potrero Chico will appreciate its approachable entry point paired with technical moves that challenge skill without overwhelming, making Double Cherry Pie a memorable test on limestone etched by wind and sun.
Seasonal factors weigh in here: spring and fall bring cooler, more comfortable conditions with lower chance of sudden storms, while summer’s heat demands early starts and thorough hydration. Wind can whip through the valley in the afternoon, adding a brisk edge that refreshes but calls for layered clothing. As always in the desert environment, sun protection is essential, alongside a solid plan for water intake.
Safety notes include attention to rockfall hazards common in the area—helmets are strongly recommended. While the route offers good protection, approach and descent terrain includes loose scree and uneven trails, so secure footing is paramount when moving to and from the wall. Descending via rappels requires familiarity with setting up anchors and managing rope lengths safely, as fixed chains at anchors facilitate smooth transitions.
In summary, Double Cherry Pie is a rewarding sport climb capturing the essence of El Potrero Chico’s climbing scene: technical, exposed, and scenic. It invites climbers to engage both body and mind, balancing bold, athletic moves with a clear route blueprint beneath open, sunlit skies.
Loose rock can appear near the approach trail and around anchors; maintain vigilance while ascending and descending. The roof section demands careful positioning to avoid swing falls, and wearing a helmet is strongly advised throughout the climb.
Start early to avoid the desert heat hitting the wall by midday.
Wear a helmet to protect from occasional rockfall in steep sections.
Bring enough water—none is available near the base.
Use sticky rubber shoes for better grip on pocketed limestone.
The climb is protected by 18 bolts and anchors, providing confidence for lead climbers. Expect straightforward clipping with consistent bolt spacing, but be ready for the physical demands of the roof move on pitch two.
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