HomeClimbingDorothy Does Josh

Dorothy Does Josh: A Crisp Sport Climb on Joshua Tree's Northwest Face

Twentynine Palms, California United States
arete traverse
desert sport climb
short pitch
technical crux
high desert
Length: 40 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dorothy Does Josh
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dorothy Does Josh offers a concise pitch on Joshua Tree’s Voodoo Dome that challenges climbers with a slippery arete traverse and a technical crux on the north face. This 40-foot sport climb balances solid protection with desert exposure, perfect for those seeking a focused test of skill in a classic high desert setting."

Dorothy Does Josh: A Crisp Sport Climb on Joshua Tree's Northwest Face

Dorothy Does Josh carves its path on the rugged northwest face of Voodoo Dome, an iconic granite feature within Joshua Tree National Park. This 40-foot single-pitch sport climb offers a sharp sequence of movements, engaging climbers immediately as they begin by tracing the west face before wrapping delicately around the arete to meet the north side. Here lies the crux—where balance and technique come to the forefront, demanding steady footwork and confident hand placements. The rock’s texture feels coarse yet solid underhand, providing reliable friction even in the dry desert air.

The approach to the climb is straightforward, with the route perched above a scruffy patch of desert scrub and hardy yucca plants typical of the high desert ecosystem. Early morning light filters through slices of open sky, casting clear shadows that help highlight holds during your ascent. With a moderate height, Dorothy Does Josh fits well as a sharp warm-up or a targeted challenge for climbers hovering around the 5.10a grade.

Protection is straightforward—four to five quickdraws suffice to clip the well-spaced bolts that guard the line. A few runners to extend anchors complete your rack, making for a light, efficient setup that lets you focus on movement rather than gear management. The climb's blend of exposure and technicality rewards those who keep their head while reading the rock.

Timing your climb for the cooler hours of morning or late afternoon is wise; the wall faces north, offering respite from the worst heat of the midday sun yet absorbing enough warmth to keep holds from feeling slick. Wind lightens the dry air, carrying cacti’s subtle aromatics and distant bird calls, making for an experience where desert wilderness actively engages your senses.

Downclimb options here require caution—most parties opt for a controlled rappel setup from established anchors to return safely to the base, avoiding the loose terrain scattered across the approach zone. Ensure your rappel gear is in top shape and communicate clearly with your partner; sharp wind gusts can make rope management tricky.

This route stands as a precise example of Joshua Tree’s characteristic climbs: short, technical, and demanding keen focus on body positioning. Climbers aiming to test their crackless sport skills will find Dorothy Does Josh a rewarding tick, combining the park’s unique rock quality with solid protection and a reachable challenge. Whether you’re jumping into your first 5.10 or polishing your sport technique, this climb rewards both preparation and presence in the desert landscape.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution with your rappel setup—wind gusts can affect rope handling, and the terrain below is loose and rocky. Avoid downclimbing to reduce risk, and double-check all gear before descent.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late to avoid the midday desert heat.

Watch for loose rock near the base during your approach.

Use precise foot placements on the arete to conserve energy.

Plan a rappel descent to avoid unstable downclimbing terrain.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Dorothy Does Josh delivers a stiff crux moving around the arete from west to north face. It feels true to grade for climbers comfortable at this level, with no hidden soft sections. The challenge centers on balance and body tension rather than pure power, making it a solid benchmark for sport climbers progressing from the mid-5.9 range. Compared to other Joshua Tree sport climbs, this route leans into precise footwork and confidence on vertical granite.

Gear Requirements

Clip four to five quickdraws along the bolts, and bring a few runners to extend the anchors. Light rack is ideal for this short but technical pitch.

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Tags

arete traverse
desert sport climb
short pitch
technical crux
high desert