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Doppelganger: A Crisp 5.9 Sport Climb on Hole in the Wall

Calistoga,California ,United States
sport
stemming
ledge
summit views
quickdraws
moderate grade
Wine Country
Grade: 5.9
Length: 70 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Doppelganger
Aspect
South Facing

Doppelganger

5.9, Sport

Calistoga

California ,United States

Overview

"Tackle Doppelganger, a 70-foot sport climb on the western arête of Hole in the Wall Rock. Its smooth sequence balances technical stemming with a steeper finale, offering a rewarding challenge and stellar views atop Wine Country's rugged stone."

Doppelganger: A Crisp 5.9 Sport Climb on Hole in the Wall

Doppelganger offers a striking introduction to sport climbing on the western arête of the Hole in the Wall formation. From the moment you step onto the rock, the route challenges you with a blend of technical moves and steady progression. The climb begins with a straightforward sequence past the first couple of bolts, easing you into the rhythm before transitioning into a stemming trough where balance and footwork take center stage. This section demands deliberate movement as the walls press close, testing your body’s capacity to negotiate narrow spaces while maintaining tension.

As you reach the ledge, the landscape broadens both underfoot and ahead, providing a brief moment to catch your breath and soak in the surroundings. The final pitch before the anchor is more vertical, a steeper push that engages your upper body and precision at the clipping stations, ultimately rewarding you with a sense of accomplishment as you clip the rings at the rim.

Doppelganger isn’t just a climb; it’s an introduction to this pocket of Northern California’s vibrant climbing scene. The rock feels solid and well-protected with seven bolts leading you safely to the top, minimizing gear anxiety and letting you focus on movement and maintaining composure. On the far side of the arch, a modest 4th-class scramble grants access to the summit of Hole in the Wall—a perfect vantage for a quiet picnic or to take in sweeping views of the surrounding Wine Country and the distant San Francisco Bay.

The approach to the climb is straightforward but demands attention to detail. The terrain shifts from loose gravel to more stable rock as you near the formation’s base. Planning your day to start early will allow you to enjoy cooler morning air and better shade on the wall, especially in warmer months.

For gear, relying on sport-specific essentials like comfortable shoes with smearing capability and a standard climbing rack centered on quickdraws will serve you well. Given the positions of the anchors, it’s critical to bring long slings to set up a secure and flexible top-belaying station, especially if you plan to linger at the summit.

Local climbers cherish Doppelganger as a solid warm-up or a go-to climb for a quick, invigorating session. It blends approachable difficulty with enough variety to keep the experience engaging without overwhelming, making it suitable whether you’re easing into sport climbing or revisiting your 5.9 skills. The route’s clean lines and reliable protection create a conduit not just up rock but into the rhythm of California’s diverse climbing offerings.

In sum, Doppelganger is a practical yet invigorating sport route stripped of unnecessary drama yet rich with elemental climbing pleasures. It’s a spot where rock meets sky and every movement counts, reinforced by a stunning setting that rewards both effort and focus.

Climber Safety

While protection is consistent and bolts are well-placed, climbers must be cautious near the summit anchors. Use long slings to avoid edge hang and double-check your setup, as the ledge tightens and rock can be loose around the rim.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.9
TypeSport
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to catch cooler morning shade on the west-facing wall.

Bring long slings for anchors; standard quickdraws suffice for the bolts.

Check the weather; the rock can get hot and slippery in the afternoon sun.

Explore the 4th-class scramble behind the arch for fantastic panoramic views.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Doppelganger feels fair and accessible, with no unexpected crux. The stemming trough demands focus and body tension but remains steady, making it an excellent climb for climbers solid at this grade looking to refine technique. Compared to nearby sport climbs, it leans toward the approachable side without sacrificing movement variety.

Gear Requirements

Seven bolts leading to anchor rings provide solid protection with no need for additional gear. Long slings are essential for building a safe belay at the summit where anchors sit well back from the edge.

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Tags

sport
stemming
ledge
summit views
quickdraws
moderate grade
Wine Country