"Don's Crack offers an 80-foot test of finger and hand jams on the southeast face of Isles in the Sky. This technical 5.10a climb blends sustained stemming with confident gear placement, set against Joshua Tree’s rugged desert backdrop."
Don's Crack stands as a bold invitation to climbers seeking a concentrated test of finger and hand crack technique within Joshua Tree National Park. Found on the southeast face of Isles in the Sky, this single-pitch climb stretches roughly 80 feet up a steep wall, demanding precise stemming and careful body positioning. The line begins just right of Solar Oven and edges alongside a prominent dihedral, edging toward the right face of a narrow corridor entrance. The rock’s texture is firm, with occasional features providing subtle footholds, but the main challenge comes from maintaining a strong, steady jam through the tight crack. Climbers will feel the rock pressing back, as if the wall itself dares each hand and finger to lock in place and push upward.
Rated at 5.10a, Don's Crack carries a straightforward yet well-earned grade. Its difficulty emerges from the required technique to stem off the wall behind the crack, which adds a layer of complexity beyond pure jamming skills. This route isn’t listed in many traditional guidebooks, including Vogel’s 1992 edition, making it a somewhat under-the-radar challenge for seasoned trad climbers. The approach to this wall in the Split Rocks sector is direct and accessible, with Joshua Tree’s typical desert scrub and firm boulders setting a raw, stripped-back scene around the climb.
Protection requires a standard trad rack, with gear placements that straightforwardly secure the lead without tricky hooking or insecure holds. The crack’s shape and profile are consistent enough to rely on traditional gear, but climbers should bring a full complement of cams and nuts for safe progression. With exposure mostly moderate and the face dry, the climb suits a mid-morning start to avoid the full desert heat while enjoying balanced sunlight.
Don's Crack delivers both an immersive Joshua Tree trad experience and an opportunity to hone crack climbing skills on solid rock. The route’s single-pitch length makes it an excellent choice for those wanting quality over quantity, allowing focus on technical moves without a long approach or complex descent. Remember to prepare with ample water, sturdy shoes designed for crack climbing, and to check weather conditions—dry desert air is the norm, but sudden seasonal winds can shift comfort levels rapidly.
Whether you’re plotting your first foray into Joshua Tree’s Split Rocks area or expanding your trad repertoire with a neat, finger-hard line, Don's Crack offers an authentic slice of California’s desert climbing. The setting is sculpted by sun-soaked rock and open skies, while the crack itself challenges body and mind to work in concert. Encounter the wall fully alert, stay measured, and let the route sharpen your skills under the wide, open desert horizon.
Be cautious of loose rock near the corridor entrance and ensure your gear placements are well tested. The approach trail offers firm footing but remains exposed to sun and wind, so stay hydrated and dress appropriately.
Start mid-morning to avoid the hottest desert sun on the climb.
Wear climbing shoes optimized for crack jamming to maximize grip and comfort.
Carry plenty of water, as desert temperatures rise rapidly after midday.
Check wind conditions, as brief gusts can chill or unsettle balance on exposed sections.
Bring a standard trad rack including a full set of cams and nuts. Placements are generally straightforward in the crack, with reliable pro opportunities throughout the pitch.
Upload your photos of Don's Crack and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.