HomeClimbingDoin' The Motor Boat

Doin' The Motor Boat: A Bold Arete at Devil's Glen

Owen Sound, Ontario Canada
arete
sport climb
short pitch
broken hold
beginner-friendly
cool shade
southern ontario
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Doin' The Motor Boat
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Doin' The Motor Boat is a compact, bolted arete that offers an engaging 5.9 challenge at Devil's Glen. Once rated 5.8, a broken hold now nudges the start into a more technical move, rewarding climbers looking to sharpen their sport technique in a scenic southern Ontario setting."

Doin' The Motor Boat: A Bold Arete at Devil's Glen

Doin' The Motor Boat offers an intimate yet electrifying introduction to sport climbing on the island’s left-side arete, accessible through the well-trodden descent gully at Devil's Glen. With a once-smooth 5.8 rating now nudged to 5.9 following the breakage of a key hold, the climb challenges you right from the start with a compact, slightly awkward movement that demands attention to body positioning and footwork. This solitary pitch, protected by seven well-spaced bolts, invites climbers stepping up into this grade to test their skills on an engaging vertical prow carved by clean rock faces that seem to push back with a quiet intensity.

The approach rewards you with fresh woodland air mingled with the crisp scent of limestone, the ground underfoot shifting from root-strewn soil to scattered stones leading up to the base. As you prepare to clip in, the sharp edges of the arete catch a cool breeze, as if daring each hand and foot placement to hold firm. The route compresses the essence of sport climbing into one succinct pitch—no unnecessary detours or sprawling exposures, just straightforward, compelling climbing.

Devil’s Glen itself is a distinctive climbing enclave in southern Ontario, presenting a rugged playground where bouldering and shorter sport routes blend with the landscape’s natural carve-outs. The area’s accessibility makes it a favorite among local climbers seeking quick sessions with tangible challenges amidst towering hardwoods and the distant rush of creeks below.

For those dialing into this climb, preparation is simple but essential: sturdy footwear with reliable edging capabilities, chalk to steady your grip on the sometimes slick holds, and a well-loved rope of standard sport length. Early spring through late fall offers the most consistent conditions, with summer mornings providing shade on the arete, perfect for beating the heat without losing that fresh forest ambiance.

Locals advise scanning the polished sections before your attempt—smudges from repeated climbs often weaken friction, so precise feet and measured movements pay dividends here. Descending is straightforward: retrace your steps down the gully, a short but occasionally loose path that demands steady footing.

While the route’s simplicity might appear modest, its character lies in a balance of approachable challenge and no-frills execution. It’s a recommended climb for those ready to push past beginner grades without veering into the strenuous, a tangible stepping stone carved out of limestone and bolted with care. Whether you’re topping out with a whoop or gingerly clipping the final bolt, Doin' The Motor Boat rewards commitment with a clear line, solid protection, and a slice of Ontario’s climbing spirit.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of the loose rocks on the descent gully—solid footing is essential to avoid slips. The route’s polished holds can reduce friction, so use deliberate movements to maintain control, especially near the broken hold start.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Check for polished holds before climbing to anticipate slick spots.

Wear shoes with good edging to handle the arete’s sharp features.

Aim for early morning climbs in summer for cooler, shaded conditions.

Descend carefully down the gully, watching for loose rocks.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating is a slight adjustment from the original 5.8 grade due to a broken hold that now demands a more technical start. This bump adds a subtle but effective crux early on, testing precise footwork and body tension. Compared to other Devil’s Glen routes, it sits comfortably at the entry-intermediate level, ideal for climbers ready to push beyond basics.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by seven bolts spaced to balance security and movement flow. Despite its short length, climbers should bring a single 60m rope for easy top-rope setup and safe descent.

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Tags

arete
sport climb
short pitch
broken hold
beginner-friendly
cool shade
southern ontario