"Doesn’t Suck offers a straightforward 5.9 sport climb on the limestone faces of Lover’s Leap, blending juggy holds with a crack traverse and steeper headwall. Perfect for sharpening technique or enjoying a solid half-day climb."
Doesn't Suck at 45 Wall, within the rugged limestone cliffs of Lover’s Leap in Northeast California, offers a solid introduction to sport climbing with just enough bite to satisfy those seeking a reliable 5.9 challenge. This route unfolds over a single pitch of approximately 70 feet, delivering a climb that is as straightforward as the name promises but with varied moves that keep your focus sharp. From the moment your hands meet the juggy face holds, the climb invites a steady rhythm, leaning into comfortable but engaging movement. Midway, the crux surfaces as you transition to a crack traverse, testing finger strength and footwork against the textured limestone. The wall presses steeper at the head, providing the satisfying pump that climbers expect at this grade.
Positioned on a well-bolted line with seven bolts plus solid anchors, protection is straightforward, offering peace of mind while you focus on the moves. The limestone features offer a mix of sharp pockets and positive edges, which reward precise technique and controlled breathing. Senses heighten here—not only because of the vertical ascent but because the rock seems to challenge your grip with a subtle texture that you can feel crunching under fingertips.
Approaching Doesn't Suck is a manageable hike through the forested veins leading to 45 Wall. The trail winds gently upward, easing you into the climb mentally while the surrounding pines whisper a steady tempo. Once at the base, the route greets you with vertical clarity and a practical bolt line that’s well spaced for efficient protection placement. Given the single pitch nature, this route fits perfectly into a half-day climb session, whether warming up for longer routes or simply sharpening your skills.
Preparation is simple but essential. Sturdy climbing shoes with a sensitive edge will serve well on the subtle crimps and pockets. Hydration is key, especially during the warmer months when the sun angles onto the face mid-morning through afternoon. Early starts earn you shade and cooler rock temperatures. The wall’s northeast orientation delays direct sun exposure, making late spring through early fall the ideal window. Cooler mornings let you settle into the rhythm before the limestone bakes under the sun’s increasing heat.
This climb is practical for climbers stepping into the 5.9 world or those eager for a concise, rewarding challenge. The steady jug holds and the technical crack sections work together to cultivate skills that translate to more demanding routes nearby. Keep an eye on your foot placements, and don’t rush the transitions—the climb flows best with deliberate intent. After topping out at the well-secured anchors, a straightforward descent via the established trail or a short rappel cleans the route efficiently.
Doesn’t Suck lives up to its name: a solid, no-frills sport climb that delivers quality movement and dependable protection in a spectacular natural setting. Whether you’re aiming to refine technique or looking for a satisfying day cragging, this route stands out for its accessible challenge and the crisp limestone experience typical of Lover’s Leap.
Watch for sharp rock texture near the crack section that can be tough on skin and gear. Though bolts are well placed, stay mindful when clipping to avoid swinging falls due to the route’s headwall angle.
Start early to beat the midday sun; northeast-facing walls warm slowly in the morning.
Wear climbing shoes with sensitive edges to handle the crack traverse effectively.
Hydrate well, especially in warm weather, as the climb offers limited natural shade.
Use chalk to maintain grip on the textured limestone pockets and cracks.
Seven bolts and anchors provide straightforward protection on this 70-foot sport route, ensuring solid clipping points throughout the steady ascent.
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