"Do or Diet tests your crack climbing skills amid the textured granite of Waterfall Wall. This compact trad route demands precision from a tight slot into a steep crack capped by a compelling overlap, all set against the wild beauty of Comox Lake."
Do or Diet commands attention on the Waterfall Wall, a rugged slice of Vancouver Island's Comox Lake climbing scene. This single-pitch trad route challenges climbers to emerge from a tight, narrow slot, where every move demands precision and focus. The climb begins with a leftward traverse that steadily gains height, the rock packed with texture that invites both hand and feet to dance in careful rhythm against the granite. Once the traverse is behind you, the route shifts into a steep crack that juts upward, compelling you to test your crack climbing skills and strategic gear placements to push through an imposing overlap at the top.
The Waterfall Wall stands as a quiet guardian to the lake’s edge, its surface shaded part of the day by dense coastal evergreens that hum softly with the breeze. The cool, damp forest air mingles with the scent of moss and wet stone, keeping the rock refreshingly tacky yet demanding clean, deliberate moves. The crack’s angle and the tightness of the slot demand full attention — a misstep could mean losing precious rhythm. Protection consists of five bolts and traditional gear placements up to three inches, so a rack heavy on cams suited for finger to hand sizes will serve best. Bolts provide intermittent security, but much of the route relies on solid gear judgment.
Approach to Waterfall Wall involves a moderate hike along forested trails that snake through thick underbrush and alongside trickling creeks. The trailhead is accessible from the Comox Valley area, with GPS coordinates placing you precisely at 49.62638 latitude and -125.08923 longitude. Expect a 20-minute approach where the steady uphill walk rewards with glimpses of Comox Lake’s shimmering surface framed by rugged cliffs. Early morning or late afternoon offers the ideal window to climb Do or Diet when the wall isn’t soaked from the Pacific rains and the sun casts cool shadows, softening the grip of the rock.
This route is well suited for climbers looking to sharpen trad crack skills in a setting that balances commitment with rewarding rock quality. While the star ratings are modest, the technical elements—especially navigating the overlap—add a satisfying sense of exposure and accomplishment. The climb's moderate length belies the intensity packed into each movement. Post-climb, take time to soak in the lake’s quiet vastness and the forest canopy that seems to monitor your efforts silently.
Safety remains a priority: the rock can be slick when wet, and the narrow slot doesn't allow room for hesitation or second-guessing. Careful gear placements are essential to prevent any slips, especially on the steep crack. Descending is straightforward—climbers rappel from fixed anchors at the top, though checking anchor integrity in this wet environment is advised. Overall, Do or Diet stands ready to challenge and reward with a dose of island grit, offering a vivid sample of British Columbia’s wild climbing heritage.
The narrow slot and steep crack offer little margin for error. Wet conditions dramatically increase slip risk, so aim for dry days and place gear carefully. Inspect all fixed bolts before descending, as coastal moisture may affect corrosion.
Start early to avoid wet rock and enjoy cooler temperatures.
Bring cams in the 1.5 to 3-inch range for optimal placements.
Double-check fixed anchor bolts before rappelling down.
Approach trail can be slippery after rain—use sturdy footwear.
Five bolts anchor the route, complemented by trad gear placements up to 3-inch cams. Prioritize a rack heavy on finger to hand-sized cams for the narrow crack and overlap.
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