"Dixie Peach carves a three-pitch alpine trad line across Stately Pleasure Dome’s granite slab in Tuolumne Meadows. This route combines steady crack climbing with friction slabs for a balanced and nuanced challenge in Yosemite's high country."
Dixie Peach offers a compelling alpine trad climb that sits comfortably on the imposing face of Stately Pleasure Dome within Yosemite National Park’s Tuolumne Meadows. This three-pitch route blends technical friction moves with classic crack climbing, inviting climbers to engage directly with the granite’s subtle contours and textured surfaces. Beginning with an approachable flake system, the first pitch warms you up with a sustained slab that demands steady footwork and attention as you move left into a corner crack. Above, a single bolt guards a crux move on slick granite — an unexpected nuance in an otherwise gear-reliant climb.
The second pitch shifts slightly left, where friction climbing leads toward a ledge holding a discreet crack for building an anchor. This section is less straightforward, with one older guide suggesting a bolt anchor that no longer exists, so route-finding awareness proves critical. Pitch three continues up, climbing a friction slab toward small cracks topping the Great White Book, where a solid gear anchor awaits. Depending on your pitch management and rope length, this section can be split or linked to ease rope drag.
Protection on Dixie Peach requires precision: small wires handle the initial corner flake, progressing up to a #2 Camalot on higher cracks. The rub of removed bolts means that climbers need to be confident in placing pro sensitively while respecting the route’s tonal mix of fixed and natural protection.
This route’s texture is firm but not unforgiving, mirroring the granite’s quiet but insistent character, making it a worthy line for climbers ready to step into a moderately challenging Yosemite alpine experience. The approach is typical of Tuolumne Meadows filings—short but with enough forest and meadow to settle your mind before you face the rock. Keep an eye on timing to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in this high country, and bring boots with solid grip for the hike in.
In all, Dixie Peach balances the clarity of Yosemite’s trad classics with the particular demands of alpine friction climbing. It’s a worthy pursuit for climbers looking to refine crack skills and slab technique while reconnecting with the exposed, open faces that define this part of the park.
Be cautious with anchor placements, especially on pitch two where the old bolted anchor no longer exists. Ensure protection is solid as some bolts have been removed. Watch for slick granite patches during wet conditions and keep an eye on afternoon weather.
Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in high-altitude Yosemite.
Use approach shoes with good traction for the hike across granite slabs to the base.
Check your anchors carefully due to removed bolts and rely on gear placements.
Plan rope management to accommodate variable pitch lengths and minimize drag.
Bring a standard rack with small wires for corner cracks and cams up to #2 Camalot for larger placements above. Note the route relies on natural protection; some bolts have been removed, so gear placement skills are essential.
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