Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingDisco Duck

Disco Duck at Smooth Sole Wall: A Crisp Trad Climb on Suicide Rock

Idyllwild, California United States
finger crack
trad gear
short pitch
east-facing
granite slab
beginner-friendly
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Disco Duck
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Disco Duck offers a concise trad climb on the Smooth Sole Wall of Suicide Rock. Featuring a demanding left-facing corner start and easy face climbing to the top, this 50-foot pitch blends thoughtful protection with sunlit granite that welcomes climbers of varied experience."

Disco Duck at Smooth Sole Wall: A Crisp Trad Climb on Suicide Rock

On the sun-drenched faces of Suicide Rock, the Smooth Sole Wall’s right side offers a compact yet engaging climb known as Disco Duck. This brief 50-foot trad route delivers classic southern California granite with a sharp, inviting crack to start. The climb begins in a left-facing corner about 15 feet right of Toxic Waltz, challenging your feet and hands to work in tandem against the rough rock texture. The initial crack tests your finger strength and gear placements, demanding good technique and composure right from the ground.

As you reach beyond the crack, the route opens to simpler face climbing that eases up the small buttress, rewarding steady movement with rewarding views of the surrounding rock formations. The granite here is firm and features subtle edges and smears that make upward progress satisfying, without feeling relentless. This quick pitch is perfect for climbers who want a taste of traditional protection on moderately challenging terrain without the need for a long approach or multiple pitches.

Protection demands care here, with gear placements ranging up to three inches wide. Early on, the thin left-facing corner requires precise placement of a smaller cam, including a #5 microstopper nut to secure the start. These placements aren’t always obvious, so familiarity with small cam and nut technique pays dividends to ensure a safe, confident ascent.

Approaching Disco Duck is straightforward—the trail follows well-worn paths typical of Suicide Rock’s climbing scenes. Expect a brief but rocky approach through scrub and granite slabs, taking roughly 10 to 15 minutes from the base parking area. The route’s position on the east-facing wall means morning light is generous, warming the rock early and easing the chill of desert mornings.

After topping out, descent involves slipping down a gully nestled just behind the climb, a gentle reminder to keep your footing as loose scree and uneven rocks await your final steps. This descent is a quick and accessible exit, making Disco Duck an ideal choice for climbers looking to layer their day with a manageable and rewarding traditional climb on some of California’s most storied slab granite.

For those planning a trip, sturdy footwear with solid edging capability is key, along with a lightweight rack geared for smaller cams and nuts. Hydration is crucial given the area's exposed sun and dry conditions, especially in warmer months. Early AM starts not only take advantage of prime wall temperatures but also help avoid the crowd common on Suicide Rock routes. If you’re seeking a route with a solid crack start, sensible protection, and mellow face climbing, Disco Duck stands as an accessible gateway to the classic granite around Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks.

Climber Safety

Be cautious on the descent gully as loose scree can challenge your footing—sturdy shoes and deliberate steps are essential. The crack start requires clean gear placement; avoid rushing to prevent runouts.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday heat on this east-facing wall.

Wear shoes with solid edging for the crack and face sections.

Hydrate well before and during the climb—summer sun is intense.

Descent down the gully behind the route; watch footing on loose scree.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated a moderate 5.8, Disco Duck’s grade feels true to its style with a sharp crux at the initial left-facing corner. After the crux, the face climbing eases off, making the pitch approachable for climbers comfortable with thin gear placements. Compared to nearby routes like Toxic Waltz, it has a slightly softer finish but demands precise start technique.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack with cams up to three inches and a set of nuts including a #5 microstopper for the delicate corner start. Small gear placements are key to securing the crux.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Disco Duck and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

finger crack
trad gear
short pitch
east-facing
granite slab
beginner-friendly